So for the second night in a row I’m blogging from a balcony overlooking busy downtown Charleston with a glass of wine. For the second night in a row the live band across the street is singing an unbearably long version of “Dixie” where the crowd cheers wildly each time they think they have reached the end… only to find another chorus. Strangely, it’s the only thing in Charleston that’s not entirely classy.
Today we toured houses older than our country, investigated cannons and mortars for rifling and carriage quality, and shopped. The highlight of the day was a fantastic woman who deals in Persian rugs. The wife and I had spent some time looking over quality rugs several years back in Thailand so when I spotted the shop I thought it would be fun to take a peek. The charming owner was having a slow afternoon so she spent the next two hours teaching us while working through piles of rugs. I learned to spot a rug from the Caucus Mountains, a tribal, a Tabriz, or a floral, among others. We learned about vegetable dyes (pre-1920) and modern dyes, fading rugs more than 200 years old, and modern silk/wool mixes. Most of her rugs were Persian (or Iranian) and most were 60-90 years old. I was fascinated by the history and study of it all while my wife was focusing on the interior decorating part. We discussed flying back to pick out a rug or two when we buy our next place. For anyone in the Charleston area, I would absolutely stop by Khoury Oriental Rugs and talk with Dolly, even if you don’t want or need a rug.
This evening was spent gorging ourselves on local seafood. Here’s a tip: If the place has a bucket in the middle of the table, you’re in the right place! Now I’m drinking red wine in the vain hope that it keeps my arteries open until my cholesterol comes back down to earth.
I have enjoyed Charleston a great deal. I am by no means an expert on the Atlantic coast Confederacy, but I have visited Savannah, Georgia not far to the south. I’ve also visited Northern Virginia twice on day trips. The difference here is surprisingly stark. The character of the town is very much intact, rather than, say, Savannah, which struck me more as a tourist version of the south. The architecture is similar, the history is similar, but Charleston just seems so much more genuine. I’d recommend it to anyone looking for a long weekend getaway.
No related posts.
