
Practice may not make perfect, but it makes you better.
Here’s a little departure from my Texas land-buying adventures (or lack of adventures, since the most exciting thing all week was that huge steak dinner).
I’ve had a couple of folks ask me about what they need to do to get started bowhunting for hogs. It’s a good question, because taking after wild boar with stick and string is a pretty serious commitment. You need the right equipment, the right mentality, and a good dose of luck to successfully hunt hogs with archery gear. I wouldn’t rank one of those factors above the others either.
The thing is, I’ve sort of danced around this topic on the blog. I absolutely do not consider myself an archery expert, and my very limited success as a bowhunter probably speaks volumes to that. Ask me about rifles and rounds, and I can carry on at great length. But archery tackle… well, that’s another story. I’m not deeply steeped in the technological aspects, nor am I any great shakes in the practical side. I shoot a bow, and do pretty well on targets… but that’s sort of it.
Enough disclaimers?
If you want to bowhunt for hogs, there are the obvious gear recommendations. I can tell you this much.
You want a bow that’s delivering significant energy to the target. The thing is, there are so many variables that go into the amount of energy a bow delivers, that it’s kind of hard to call out a specific recommendation. Personally, I’ve found that my recurve, at 52# draw with 140 grain, two-bladed broadheads will pass through a smallish hog (100lbs), but did not fully penetrate a bigger sow (150+). Those are the only two hogs I’ve hit with the recurve, so my sample is pretty small and certainly not definitive. But it does tell me that a 52# trad bow, at least in my configuration, is acceptable but not ideal.
On the other hand, my compound, a Mathews Drenalin at 70#, is more than sufficient… on paper. I’ve only actually hit one hog with it, a 180 lb. sow. With a boiler-room shot just behind the shoulder, the arrow, tipped with a 100gr. Slick-Trick broadhead, passed almost completely through.
You want a well-constructed broadhead. That could be boilerplate from any archery or bowhunting site, but it’s important. Hogs are tough, and they have big bones. The boars, especially the older ones, have a cartilage “shield” behind the shoulder that can be pretty danged thick too. A broadhead needs to be able to break those bones or penetrate that shield in order to be effective. I’ve found, in my relatively limited testing, that the Magnus Journeyman broadhead is about as tough as you could ever ask for. I hit a cinderblock almost dead on with one at 20 yards, and didn’t chip or bend the blade. The Slick Tricks are pretty tough too, although I’m not completely happy with the wound channel and blood trail I’m getting from them.
By the way, the general concensus seems to recommend against mechanical broadheads. I guess the word is that they tend to open prematurely on contact with big bones or cartilage, and may not penetrate enough to do the job. Theoretically that makes sense, but I can’t say for sure. My limited experience with other hunters using expandables has been mixed… but that’s sometimes more a factor of the archer than the broadhead.
But that’s about as technical as I can get about gear and gadgets. You can check out some great sites, like Bowsite.com for better and more detailed info. That place has more than most folks would ever want to know about archery and bowhunting, as well as gear and gadgets. There’s also some really good information over on MyOutdoorTV.com. Check out the How-To section.
But getting the right gear is only part of the equation. The other part that seems to get largely overlooked is the proper preparation of the hunter. I mean, really, gear is gear. It’s a pile of inanimate objects that are only as good as the person wielding them. So what can I tell you about wielding them?
Practice. 
Shoot your bow as much as you can. Try different angles and shooting positions. If you’ll be shooting from a treestand, then practice from a treestand (or ladder). If you’re shooting from a ground blind, then practice from a ground blind. And practice at many ranges, but make a point of shooting from as far away as is practical. You don’t have to (or want to) shoot long range at animals, but practicing on long-range targets makes you immensely better at real, hunting distances. You really want to shoot until your accuracy is so consistent that it’s boring. And then keep shooting. Add 3-D and field courses to keep it interesting if you can.
Archery is all about technique and form. You have to be unconsciously consistent, and this is especially critical for a bowhunter. If you have to think about your anchor point, or check the level to see which way the bow is canted, or dwell on how to release the arrow without jerking it… well, you’re going to miss opportunities. This is a game of muscle memory, patience, and restraint. If you’re going to shoot at live game, especially hogs that are almost never stationary, you can’t take time to mentally step through the shot. It has to come automatically. The only way that’s going to happen is through practice.
And now, for the one thing that doesn’t get nearly the emphasis it deserves… learn to track.
There is one certainty in bowhunting. The animal will probably not fall right over dead when you shoot it. If you make a really good shot you may see your quarry go down in relative short order. If all the stars and planets are aligned, this will happen where you can see the hog (or whatever you’re hunting) drop. In this case, give it some time to be sure it’s expired, and then go collect your prize.
However, the more likely situation is that your prey will take off at the shot and disappear. You are going to have to be able to blood-trail this animal… sometimes for hundreds of yards. Blood-trailing isn’t rocket science, but it isn’t always easy. It takes a sharp eye, common sense, and lots of stubborn perseverance. There are also a handful of tricks and techniques. I can’t begin to cover all of this in a simple blog post. It would take a book or two, plus an awful lot of time in the field to really drill this stuff in. But here are a few basic pointers.
First, never rush it. You’ll hear this all the time, but most hunters (especially newer ones) forget it in the hazy excitement that usually follows the shot. Sit down and take a breath. Get your head together. Even if you saw the animal go down, sit tight and wait a while.
You have to understand that an arrow doesn’t kill like a high-powered bullet. Bullets smash everything up with hydrostatic shock, and can shut down an animal’s key life functions without actually hitting the heart or lungs. Arrows kill, primarily, through blood loss. This sometimes takes a little bit of time, depending on where the arrow hit. (I’m not going to get into the arguments about humane kills here… I know what I’ve seen, and I’m convinced that a well-placed broadhead is every bit as humane as a bullet.) If you go after the animal too soon, it may very well jump and run… and then you’re stuck with a tricky situation and an alarmed animal.
If you’re absolutely sure you made a good hit on the heart or lungs, or if you saw the hog go down, give it about 20 or 30 minutes anyway. My brother’s practice is to go smoke a cigarette, but I don’t recommend that for obvious reasons… particularly for those of us who don’t smoke. But you might consider other ways to pass the time. Maybe grab the ubiquitous cell phone and call someone who cares, and tell them about the hunt. If you can do so without crossing the animal’s path, you might wander back out to the car and have a soda or a sandwich. Or, if there aren’t any other options, just sit back and count the birds. Enjoy the rest of the day (or evening).
If you’re less sure of the hit, give it more time. A rule of thumb is to give at least four hours for a marginal lung or vitals hit. If you think you may have made a gut shot, you might give it twice that long. In that case, mark the spot where you shot, make a mental map of where the animal went after the shot, and go home. Don’t stay, because if you’re like most people, you’ll get impatient and start after the animal too soon. I’m here to tell you, even with a fatal wound, a marginally hit hog can go a long, long ways. If you push it too soon, you will very likely lose the animal.
A note here. There’s a general school of thought that suggests an exception to the “wait-a-bit” rule. In the event of a deep muscle hit, like a ham or high-shoulder, some experts actually recommend pushing the animal. The theory is that this will increase bleeding, and if the broadhead is still inside, will increase the damage the broadhead inflicts as it jostles around (I’m here to tell you that the things a razor sharp broadhead does while bouncing around inside the body cavity are simply scary!). Personally, I’ve only tried this twice and in both cases, I lost the animal. In at least one case, the wound was obviously not lethal. In the other case, I’m not as sure, but the deer I was after jumped up and finally disappeared into the swamp after two days of hard tracking. Either the gators got him, or he got away. I’ll never know.
There are always variables. Rain or snow can hide a trail, so if these are imminent, you may have to push the limits a little bit and get after your animal sooner than advised. If you’re hunting in the hot weather, meat spoilage is a real concern… especially for hogs. There’s a fine line between taking a chance on letting a dead animal spoil, or pushing one too soon. And I can speak from experience that it sucks to lose an animal to the heat after a tough tracking job. But it sucks just as much to lose one altogether because you lost the bloodtrail.
But most of this stuff has been covered before, and better, by other writers in other places. It does pay to read up. But following up the shot comes down to the overworn adage… when in doubt, back out.
How do you get better at trailing? The single best answer is experience. You learn this stuff by doing it, and at a point you’ll find yourself noticing things without even looking for them. Learn to identify the freshly bent blade of grass, the scuffed hoof mark that indicates a limp or dragging limb, the erratic trail of a sick animal looking for a place to lie down. You can get a lot of this just by tracking healthy animals, which is something I used to do a lot. There are other obvious benefits to spending this kind of time afield, by the way.
There are other things you can do as well, if you’re so inclined. Never seen a blood trail before? Go to the store and buy a package of bloody hamburger. Get the blood and go out in your yard, or in a park somewhere. Walk slowly along and drip some of the blood on the ground, and then go back and take a look at what it did when it hit. You’ll notice some obvious things, like the way the splatter tends to go in the same direction you were walking. Hell, if you’re really bored and ambitious, make a game of it. Have someone create a blood trail and then try to follow it.
Remember that an animal doesn’t just bleed downward. Blood from a wound will wipe off on brush and grass. A lung wound will often spray blood as well, and that sprayed blood is a good indication that you’ve made a good, fatal hit. The same for an arterial hit, as the blood will pump with each heartbeat. Of course, in either of these cases, you’ll probably be following a short trail.
Learn to identify different kinds of blood. The bright red of an artery is quite a bit different from the dark, almost black blood of a liver shot. Bubbles usually indicate lungs, of course, while stomach matter tells you the sad tale of a gut shot. It can get tricky. Muscle blood can also be a pretty bright red color, but a muscle hit seldom indicates a quick kill. Play the shot back in your head the best you can, and try to re-imagine where that arrow hit.
Just as important, remember that a lack of blood doesn’t necessarily mean a poor hit or a miss. Hogs are notoriously poor bleeders, particularly a healthy, fat one. Even a big wound can close up quickly as the fat and skin move over the hole. If you are sure you made a good hit, you’re going to have to go on confidence and bushcraft to track that animal. Don’t give up just because you’re not finding puddles of blood every two feet.
At any rate, if you’re going to bowhunt, whether for hogs or anything else, I can’t emphasize enough the importance of learning to track. This is, in my opinion, far more important than the kind of equipment you use.
For a kind of cool tracking experience and lesson, check out Bowsite.com for their Interactive Blood Trail challenges. These are series of real-life photos that show you clues in each phase of the trail. It’s not quite a substitute for the real thing, but it is a really great way to learn what to look for and how to proceed through some of the trickier parts of the puzzle.