Practice may not make perfect, but it makes you better.

Here’s a little departure from my Texas land-buying adventures (or lack of adventures, since the most exciting thing all week was that huge steak dinner).

I’ve had a couple of folks ask me about what they need to do to get started bowhunting for hogs.  It’s a good question, because taking after wild boar with stick and string is a pretty serious commitment.  You need the right equipment, the right mentality, and a good dose of luck to successfully hunt hogs with archery gear.  I wouldn’t rank one of those factors above the others either.

The thing is, I’ve sort of danced around this topic on the blog.  I absolutely do not consider myself an archery expert, and my very limited success as a bowhunter probably speaks volumes to that.  Ask me about rifles and rounds, and I can carry on at great length.  But archery tackle… well, that’s another story.  I’m not deeply steeped in the technological aspects, nor am I any great shakes in the practical side.  I shoot a bow, and do pretty well on targets… but that’s sort of it.

Enough disclaimers?

If you want to bowhunt for hogs, there are the obvious gear recommendations.  I can tell you this much.

You want a bow that’s delivering significant energy to the target.  The thing is, there are so many variables that go into the amount of energy a bow delivers, that it’s kind of hard to call out a specific recommendation.  Personally, I’ve found that my recurve, at 52# draw with 140 grain, two-bladed broadheads will pass through a smallish hog (100lbs), but did not fully penetrate a bigger sow (150+).  Those are the only two hogs I’ve hit with the recurve, so my sample is pretty small and certainly not definitive.  But it does tell me that a 52# trad bow, at least in my configuration, is acceptable but not ideal.

On the other hand, my compound, a Mathews Drenalin at 70#, is more than sufficient… on paper.  I’ve only actually hit one hog with it, a 180 lb. sow.  With a boiler-room shot just behind the shoulder, the arrow, tipped with a 100gr. Slick-Trick broadhead, passed almost completely through.

You want a well-constructed broadhead.  That could be boilerplate from any archery or bowhunting site, but it’s important.  Hogs are tough, and they have big bones.  The boars, especially the older ones, have a cartilage “shield” behind the shoulder that can be pretty danged thick too.  A broadhead needs to be able to break those bones or penetrate that shield in order to be effective.  I’ve found, in my relatively limited testing, that the Magnus Journeyman broadhead is about as tough as you could ever ask for.  I hit a cinderblock almost dead on with one at 20 yards, and didn’t chip or bend the blade.  The Slick Tricks are pretty tough too, although I’m not completely happy with the wound channel and blood trail I’m getting from them.

By the way, the general concensus seems to recommend against mechanical broadheads.  I guess the word is that they tend to open prematurely on contact with big bones or cartilage, and may not penetrate enough to do the job.  Theoretically that makes sense, but I can’t say for sure.  My limited experience with other hunters using expandables has been mixed… but that’s sometimes more a factor of the archer than the broadhead.

But that’s about as technical as I can get about gear and gadgets.  You can check out some great sites, like Bowsite.com for better and more detailed info.  That place has more than most folks would ever want to know about archery and bowhunting, as well as gear and gadgets.  There’s also some really good information over on MyOutdoorTV.com.  Check out the How-To  section.

But getting the right gear is only part of the equation.  The other part that seems to get largely overlooked is the proper preparation of the hunter.  I mean, really, gear is gear.  It’s a pile of inanimate objects that are only as good as the person wielding them.  So what can I tell you about wielding them?

Practice. 

Shoot your bow as much as you can.  Try different angles and shooting positions.  If you’ll be shooting from a treestand, then practice from a treestand (or ladder).  If you’re shooting from a ground blind, then practice from a ground blind.  And practice at many ranges, but make a point of shooting from as far away as is practical.  You don’t have to (or want to) shoot long range at animals, but practicing on long-range targets makes you immensely better at real, hunting distances.  You really want to shoot until your accuracy is so consistent that it’s boring.  And then keep shooting.  Add 3-D and field courses to keep it interesting if you can.

Archery is all about technique and form.  You have to be unconsciously consistent, and this is especially critical for a bowhunter.  If you have to think about your anchor point, or check the level to see which way the bow is canted, or dwell on how to release the arrow without jerking it… well, you’re going to miss opportunities.  This is a game of muscle memory, patience, and restraint.  If you’re going to shoot at live game, especially hogs that are almost never stationary, you can’t take time to mentally step through the shot.  It has to come automatically.  The only way that’s going to happen is through practice.

And now, for the one thing that doesn’t get nearly the emphasis it deserves… learn to track.

There is one certainty in bowhunting.  The animal will probably not fall right over dead when you shoot it.  If you make a really good shot you may see your quarry go down in relative short order.  If all the stars and planets are aligned, this will happen where you can see the hog (or whatever you’re hunting) drop.  In this case, give it some time to be sure it’s expired, and then go collect your prize.

However, the more likely situation is that your prey will take off at the shot and disappear.  You are going to have to be able to blood-trail this animal… sometimes for hundreds of yards.  Blood-trailing isn’t rocket science, but it isn’t always easy.  It takes a sharp eye, common sense, and lots of stubborn perseverance.  There are also a handful of tricks and techniques.  I can’t begin to cover all of this in a simple blog post.  It would take a book or two, plus an awful lot of time in the field to really drill this stuff in.  But here are a few basic pointers.

First, never rush it.  You’ll hear this all the time, but most hunters (especially newer ones) forget it in the hazy excitement that usually follows the shot.  Sit down and take a breath.  Get your head together.  Even if you saw the animal go down, sit tight and wait a while.

You have to understand that an arrow doesn’t kill like a high-powered bullet.  Bullets smash everything up with hydrostatic shock, and can shut down an animal’s key life functions without actually hitting the heart or lungs.  Arrows kill, primarily, through blood loss.  This sometimes takes a little bit of time, depending on where the arrow hit.  (I’m not going to get into the arguments about humane kills here… I know what I’ve seen, and I’m convinced that a well-placed broadhead is every bit as humane as a bullet.)  If you go after the animal too soon, it may very well jump and run… and then you’re stuck with a tricky situation and an alarmed animal.

If you’re absolutely sure you made a good hit on the heart or lungs, or if you saw the hog go down, give it about 20 or 30 minutes anyway.  My brother’s practice is to go smoke a cigarette, but I don’t recommend that for obvious reasons… particularly for those of us who don’t smoke.  But you might consider other ways to pass the time.  Maybe grab the ubiquitous cell phone and call someone who cares, and tell them about the hunt.  If you can do so without crossing the animal’s path, you might wander back out to the car and have a soda or a sandwich.  Or, if there aren’t any other options, just sit back and count the birds.  Enjoy the rest of the day (or evening).

If you’re less sure of the hit, give it more time.  A rule of thumb is to give at least four hours for a marginal lung or vitals hit.  If you think you may have made a gut shot, you might give it twice that long.  In that case, mark the spot where you shot, make a mental map of where the animal went after the shot, and go home.  Don’t stay, because if you’re like most people, you’ll get impatient and start after the animal too soon.  I’m here to tell you, even with a fatal wound, a marginally hit hog can go a long, long ways.  If you push it too soon, you will very likely lose the animal.

A note here.  There’s a general school of thought that suggests an exception to the “wait-a-bit” rule.  In the event of a deep muscle hit, like a ham or high-shoulder, some experts actually recommend pushing the animal.  The theory is that this will increase bleeding, and if the broadhead is still inside, will increase the damage the broadhead inflicts as it jostles around (I’m here to tell you that the things a razor sharp broadhead does while bouncing around inside the body cavity are simply scary!).  Personally, I’ve only tried this twice and in both cases, I lost the animal.  In at least one case, the wound was obviously not lethal.  In the other case, I’m not as sure, but the deer I was after jumped up and finally disappeared into the swamp after two days of hard tracking.  Either the gators got him, or he got away.  I’ll never know.

There are always variables.  Rain or snow can hide a trail, so if these are imminent, you may have to push the limits a little bit and get after your animal sooner than advised.  If you’re hunting in the hot weather, meat spoilage is a real concern… especially for hogs.  There’s a fine line between taking a chance on letting a dead animal spoil, or pushing one too soon.  And I can speak from experience that it sucks to lose an animal to the heat after a tough tracking job.  But it sucks just as much to lose one altogether because you lost the bloodtrail.

But most of this stuff has been covered before, and better, by other writers in other places.  It does pay to read up. But following up the shot comes down to the overworn adage… when in doubt, back out.

How do you get better at trailing?  The single best answer is experience.  You learn this stuff by doing it, and at a point you’ll find yourself noticing things without even looking for them.  Learn to identify the freshly bent blade of grass, the scuffed hoof mark that indicates a limp or dragging limb, the erratic trail of a sick animal looking for a place to lie down.  You can get a lot of this just by tracking healthy animals, which is something I used to do a lot.  There are other obvious benefits to spending this kind of time afield, by the way.

There are other things you can do as well, if you’re so inclined.  Never seen a blood trail before?  Go to the store and buy a package of bloody hamburger.  Get the blood and go out in your yard, or in a park somewhere.  Walk slowly along and drip some of the blood on the ground, and then go back and take a look at what it did when it hit.  You’ll notice some obvious things, like the way the splatter tends to go in the same direction you were walking.  Hell, if you’re really bored and ambitious, make a game of it.  Have someone create a blood trail and then try to follow it.

Remember that an animal doesn’t just bleed downward.  Blood from a wound will wipe off on brush and grass.  A lung wound will often spray blood as well, and that sprayed blood is a good indication that you’ve made a good, fatal hit.  The same for an arterial hit, as the blood will pump with each heartbeat.  Of course, in either of these cases, you’ll probably be following a short trail.

Learn to identify different kinds of blood.  The bright red of an artery is quite a bit different from the dark, almost black blood of a liver shot.  Bubbles usually indicate lungs, of course, while stomach matter tells you the sad tale of a gut shot.  It can get tricky.  Muscle blood can also be a pretty bright red color, but a muscle hit seldom indicates a quick kill.  Play the shot back in your head the best you can, and try to re-imagine where that arrow hit.

Just as important, remember that a lack of blood doesn’t necessarily mean a poor hit or a miss.  Hogs are notoriously poor bleeders, particularly a healthy, fat one.  Even a big wound can close up quickly as the fat and skin move over the hole.  If you are sure you made a good hit, you’re going to have to go on confidence and bushcraft to track that animal.  Don’t give up just because you’re not finding puddles of blood every two feet.

At any rate, if you’re going to bowhunt, whether for hogs or anything else, I can’t emphasize enough the importance of learning to track.  This is, in my opinion, far more important than the kind of equipment you use.

For a kind of cool tracking experience and lesson, check out Bowsite.com for their Interactive Blood Trail challenges.  These are series of real-life photos that show you clues in each phase of the trail.  It’s not quite a substitute for the real thing, but it is a really great way to learn what to look for and how to proceed through some of the trickier parts of the puzzle.

It’s a popular seminar and often sells out, so if you’re interested it would be best to get signed up early.  Here are the details:

Ron Gayer (former Tejon Ranch Hunt Coordinator) and Durwood Hollis (outdoor writer) will conduct another one of their famed 4-hour Wild Pig Hunting Seminars on Saturday, May 28th, at the Rancho Cucamonga Bass Pro Shops.

The seminar will start at 10 a.m. and cover a wild range wild pig related subjects, including hunting on both private and public land. An extensive map packet of public land hunting areas on the central coast and San Diego County will be given to every attendee.

Cost for this seminar is $40 (junior hunters are free) and pre-registration is essential. Contact Durwood Hollis at (909) 605-3719 to register.

A couple of tips, if you’re thinking about attending.  First of all, get there early so you can sit near the front.  Second, ask questions.  The best way to make use of this sort of thing is to interact with the experts.  If you don’t understand something, or if you hear a tip or technique you’d like to try, get them to talk a little more about it.  It’s also a lot more fun if you participate in the discussion.

And finally, don’t expect to get in there and learn the honey-holes or secret spots on public land.  I can save you that effort… the best place to find hogs on public land is to look where the hogs are on the day you’re in the field.  Sure, there are probably a few places that produce consistently for folks who’ve put in the time and effort to discover them, but Ron and Durwood aren’t going to give you a map with an X on it.

Ron’s credentials include his years as head guide at the Tejon Ranch, as well as several writing and photography credits in books and magazines.  He’s also producing the Guide’s Guide to Hunting video series, which I’ve reviewed here in the past.  I’ve enjoyed many a conversation on the subject, and spent a little time in the field with Ron, and I can honestly say I learned a lot from the experience. 

Hollis’s curriculum vitae is equally impressive, with a lifetime of books, articles, and guiding experience.  He’s a character as well, and generally gets great reviews on the seminar circuit. 

This seminar is scheduled for October 30, at the Rancho Cucamonga Bass Pro Shops location.  Book in advance for $30/person, or if there are spaces left on the day of the event, you can buy tickets at the door for $45.   There are limited seats available, and these seminars often sell out, so if you’re interested you may want to move fast. 

To pre-register and reserve your seat, call (909) 605-3719, or (661) 809-1613.

Personally, I think Albert tends toward the bigger end of the caliber spectrum due to an innate drive toward self-destruction, because he really favors guns that kill on both ends when it comes to killing hogs.  I’ll generally trade the recoil of a monster like the .338 or .375 for the milder .30cals (30-06, .300winmag, etc.), and feel that’s plenty of killing power for any hog on earth.  But I also feel, and quite strongly, that there’s no such thing as “too dead”, especially when you’re dealing with an animal that can come back and make hamburger out of you PDQ.  (And I must admit to a certain masochistic thrill at shooting those big bores myself.)

So anyway, I strongly recommend that you go over and have a look… especially if you’re debating what to do for a new hog rifle.  Here’s how it begins:

Robert Ruark said “Use Enough Gun.” Peter Capstick said, “Use enough gun, but not more than you can handle.” To which I add, “Use enough gun, but not more than you can handle, and make sure you can shoot it.”

When it comes to hogs, I’m going to say something that will land me in a heap of trouble with certain parties that I run with. You can take them with anything, so long as you do it right. That’s correct, anything from the lowly 22 short to a 557NE. The catch is knowing where to put your shot. I suppose it’s the same with all game. It all boils down to three things: Shot placement, shot placement, shot placement.

In terms of practicality though, there are upper limits on the size of a hog with relation to each caliber selection. There are basically six categories; the 22s-24s, the 24s-25s, the 26s-28s, the 30-338, the 35s- 375 and the over 40 crowd. Using commercially available ammunition as our standard, the 24s and 25s should be limited to small sub 70 lbs hogs. The 26s through 28s should be kept to the 150s and lower. The thirties and 338s are good for up to 300lbs and less while the 35s, 40s and bigger can handle just about anything. These are arbitrary numbers of course and I’m sure that arguments to the contrary can be sighted ad-nausea, but these are recommendations based on actual hog taken by myself and others, and for the sake of starting arguments.

All the preceding is assumes that you are using good quality bullets constructed to take the kind of abuse intended for big game. Hunting pig can be as easy as picking flowers, to a worse case scenario that might degenerate into hand to hand combat where the odds are definitely not in your favor. Spending a few dollars more for premium bullets is mighty cheap insurance. Just ask Cliff McClure of McClure Farms here in Parrish Florida. He has a twenty-three stitch memento from a Thanksgiving Day hunt that went awry.

You can read the rest right here.

It’s actually a pretty good question, and as this year’s big trip looms (I’m hitting the road tomorrow night), I thought this was a good time to give it a go. 

First, we’ll dispense with the basics, Guns and Ammo, Optics, Gear, and Vehicles. 

Guns and Ammo: 

I’ve written about this before, but my recommendation is a centerfire rifle in .270 or larger.  Sure, a smaller rifle will kill hogs.  A rock will kill a hog.  But stepping up to something with the range, accuracy, and power of at least a .270Win gives the advantage of a versatile round that allows you to kill a large hog cleanly from powder-burn range to a couple hundred yards.  Especially at places like Tejon, where the terrain varies so widely, it’s good to be able to take the shot you’re presented instead of the shot you’d prefer (within reason, of course). 

You’ll need to be shooting lead-free ammo, so you’ll need to find the kind that shoots best in your personal rifle.  Options are currently, ETip, Barnes, Hornady GMX, Lapua Naturalis, and Remington Copper Solid.  I’ve been real happy so far with both the ETips and the Barnes TSX.  I’ve yet to try the others, however, I have seen good results from the Lapua.  Keep in mind that Tejon Ranch has a total ban on lead ammo, and you are not permitted to possess any on the property… period.  Make sure you clean your vehicle out before you arrive.

A lot of folks want to know about handguns.  I don’t recommend carrying a handgun as a “backup”, simply because it’s generally a lot of extra weight.  If you choose to do so, however, remember that it must be loaded with lead-free ammo even if it’s not your primary weapon.  I do keep my .44mag in the truck, particularly in case I decide to go hunt the bedding areas.  I also carry it if I’m called to help out on a bad blood trail.  But when I take the handgun, I generally leave the rifle behind.  There’s just not much need to carry both, in my opinion.

If you want to carry a handgun for primary, I recommend a .44mag orlarger.  Again, I’ve written about this at length elsewhere, but the bottom line is that it takes a lot of oomph and penetration to bring down a big hog.  Most of the semi-autos and such are designed for lighter rounds that don’t pack the foot-pounds you’ll need for a clean kill. For example, the .40 and .45acp are fine for finishing shots, but not recommended for big game hunting. 

Optics:

No western hunter should ever hit the field without a pair of quality binoculars.  Buy what you can afford, of course, but you won’t be sorry if you spring for the best you can manage.  I like at least a 10×40 (ten power with a 40mm objective), because that’s plenty of power to glass the shadows and draws, but it isn’t so powerful you can’t hold it steady without a tripod.  An 8-power glass is workable, but I wouldn’t bother with anything less.

You don’t need a spotting scope for this kind of hunting unless you’re specifically after trophy boars.  I’ve tried using one twice now, and it really was just more hassle than benefit. Binos worked just as well. There are plenty of good opportunities to use one though, if you feel the need.  There’s lots of open country and cross canyon vantage points.

Rangefinders can be helpful, although in general I think they’re over-rated for rifle hunters.  I have made good use of the rangefinder in my Leica GeoVid, especially with visiting hunters.  If you’re not used to estimating range in this canyon country, a measured distance can be good for the confidence.  Most folks tend to over-estimate anyway, but my rule is, if it seems “iffy”, then get closer or find another hog.  In my opinion, if it’s too far to hold dead on, then you don’t need to take the shot.  You can do better, especially at a place like Tejon Ranch.

Trail Gear:

Most of the hunting at a place like Tejon consists of spot and stalk.  You’ll seldom be more than a mile or so from the vehicle, so an extensive pack isn’t really a necessity.  When I leave the truck, I usually have about a liter or liter-and-a-half of water, a few trail bars, and some striking paper.  I also carry a signal whistle, two skinning knives and a sharpener (a hog is tough on a knife), a game bag or a couple of pillow cases, and several yards of parachute cord (550 cord).  There are also usually a few odds and ends, including some rudimentary first-aid stuff, but that’s the critical content.  All of this fits in a medium sized fanny pack, or in the tactical thigh packs I use.

While I never carry enough gear to fill a frame pack, I do carry one most of the time.  I have a tendency to drop my animals in some fairly inaccessible locations.  With a frame pack and some game bags, I can bone out a hog and lash it to the pack frame for a relatively easy recovery.  I never try to drag an animal, unless I’m really close to the vehicle.  An added benefit of the frame is that it makes carrying the little bit of gear I have a lot easier… I just lash the fanny pack to the frame. 

One other note on recovery… I always try to have several hundred yards of rope back at the vehicle.  In many cases, it’s possible to drop a long rope to your animal and let the vehicle do the heavy lifting to pull it out of a deep canyon.  You can never have too much rope.

Vehicles:

Tejon is a very accessible place, and can be hunted successfully from a two-wheel drive vehicle.  In fact, some very productive areas can be reached from the paved road.  There are several good roads, particularly when the weather is dry, so a regular pick-up truck or SUV can get around quite well.  I would recommend something with a little extra ground clearance for the dirt roads.  A decent, short-wheelbase, 4wd vehicle can access every road on the ranch in dry weather.  Some of the trails get pretty steep, and in places there’s some deep, dusty sand, so you’ll need the extra boost of a 4wd.  Long-bed pick-ups can get around pretty well too, but some roads get real tight and turning around can be a problem. 

When the weather is wet and snowy, however, it’s a different deal.  The high roads are often blocked by drifts, and the muddy lower roads can turn into real quagmires.  The clay and stone soil get slick as Vaseline, and will pack the treads of most off-road tires in no time.  In these cases, you’ll need a really good off-road vehicle combined with an experienced driver to access some areas… other areas should simply be considered inaccessible.  Get out and use the boot leather.

Recently, Tejon has started to allow the use of “side-by-sides” or UTVs, such as the Polaris or Kawasaki Mule.  These vehicles are useful and economical, but they generally don’t offer a lot of ground clearance.  An experienced driver can probably get them into some pretty tricky areas, but it’s also pretty easy to get yourself into a real bind. 

I recommend bringing along some self-extraction gear, such as a winch, hi-lift jack, come-along, and recovery straps or cables.  But even more importantly, bring along some common sense.  Every year the ranch has at least a couple of folks who end up going over the edge, and several more end up calling for the off-road wrecker service.  In at least a couple of cases, vehicles have had to be abandoned for several days until the weather permits an extraction. 

Oh, and the standard aphorism for driving at Tejon: “If the road starts looking really bad, stop and go back.  It will NOT get better around the bend.”

So what else? 

Lodging/Camping:

On most of the Tejon hunts, you have three basic lodging options. 

You can stay at a local motel (in Lebec, Grapevine, or other nearby places).  This puts you off the ranch, which means you have to drive in early to get in place for your hunt.  It’s comfortable, of course, to have a private room with real bathroom facilities and a maid service, but it’s also kind of inconvenient.

Another option is to camp, and this is what we usually do on our group hunts.  There are camping areas on both sides of the ranch (North and South).  I usually hunt the south side, and the camping area there is large and open, with plenty of room for a lot of hunters.  There are spots that are ideal for setting up a tent, and other places that you can park a full-sized RV.  There are no utilities or hook-ups, so camping will all have to be self-contained.  For larger groups, they usually put a port-a-potty or two in the campground.  The camping area on the north side is a little smaller, but it also accomodates anything from a pup tent to a 40′ motor home.  Open fires are generally not allowed during the drier months, and must be carefully controlled even when the weather is damp.  A portable fire ring, such as an old washing machine drum, is a great thing to pack if you want to sit by the fire after your hunting day is over. 

The final option is to book one of the cabins.  I forget how many cabins there are all together, but this is a great option for a smaller group of hunters (8-12).  The cabins range from rustic to quite comfortable, and rates are based on this.  The rustic cabins run $50/person for a weekend, while the nicer cabins will run $100/person.  It’s not a bad deal, but the cabins do book up pretty quickly.  Make reservations early.

Food and Supplies:

I always suggest that anyone coming out to the ranch be prepared and bring everything they need to be self-sufficient for the duration of the stay.  This includes ice, food, water, fuel, and anything else you may want to have in camp.  You’ll also need anything required to prepare the food, whether it’s a camp stove, charcoal or gas grill, or oven range and microwave.  None of this is available once you go through the gates.  However, the truth is, it’s a relatively short drive to Lebec or Grapevine where you can buy essentials if you run out. 

Clothing:

The weather at Tejon is often unpredictable, and it can swing drastically.  The ranch covers a lot of territory, and there is significant elevation change.  You can go from around 1000 feet elevation to over 6000 feet in a morning.  You may have snow and frigid wind on the summits, while the lower flats are dry and warm.  This is one of those places where they invented dressing in layers.  Also, even in the “dry season” of late spring/early summer, you can still get a nasty rain storm.  Be like a Boy Scout, and be prepared. 

Footwear should be solid and provide good support.  Fortunately, most hunting and hiking boots are perfectly acceptable.  Consider a high boot, however, especially in the warmer months when you’ll be dealing with foxtails and other spiky plants.  Rattlesnakes are also plentiful, and high boots offer a little more protection. 

Tactics:

Tejon lends itself best to spot and stalk hunting.  My favorite tactic is to find a high spot and glass like hell.  This is ideal at first and last light, but even in the mid-day hours it’s not unusual to catch a hog or two moving from bed to bed, or heading down for water.  It’s always easiest to move down on your prey, but keep the wind currents in mind.  In the morning, the currents are likely to be dipping down ahead of you, so never approach from dead over the animals.  Move away so you can approach from the side or below. 

Another tactic, and one that’s used by several of the guides at Tejon, is run and gun.  The idea is to drive from area to area, looking for pigs as you go and stopping occasionally to glass.  You’ll cover a lot of the ranch this way, but it seems to work well for the pros.  They do, however, have the added advantage of knowing the ranch really well so they can locate roads to get close to the animals. 

One last approach is to hunt the beds during the day.  Most hunters tend to end up back in camp within a few hours of sunrise.  It’s hard to kill a hog laying around your campsite.  Instead, get out on foot and get into the bedding areas.  Most of the denser canyons and draws hold pigs during the day, and it can be downright exciting to get up close and personal with them in their bedrooms.  This is an especially excellent method for archers, muzzleloaders, and handgun hunters. 

I’m sure there’s more I could get into here, but honestly, this is a lot more than I’d set out to write in the first place.  Have you hunted Tejon?  Have some ideas, tips, or recommendations?  Or do you have specific questions about the ranch?  Feel free to pile on in!

Is there a message board where hunters can exchange contact information and arrange to get together for hunting?

There are several great message boards/forums out there.   Two of them that I frequent that have a lot of CA content are Jesse’s Hunting and Outdoors and The Outdoors Forum.  Another site that a lot of hunters like is the 24 Hour Campfire.   There are a couple of social networking sites you might also try.  One of the best of these (at least one of the most active) is Camo Space. 

I do want to offer a couple of tips on getting info and connections from these forums.  First of all, remember that a forum that has been around awhile is something of a community.  A lot of members come to feel sort of possessive and protective of the space over time, and as such, a certain level of etiquette and decorum will go a long ways toward making inroads.  If you just pop into a forum and say, “hey, can someone tell me where to go kill a pig on public land,” I can almost guarantee you’ll get a cold shoulder.  (If you’re lucky, someone will point out the error of your ways in a friendly voice…others may not be so friendly.) 

A better approach is to introduce yourself, just as you would if you walked up to someone’s campfire.  Share a little about yourself, where you’re from, and what you’re all about.  Let folks know that you’re willing to do your own homework, but could sure use a little tip in the right direction.  And offer something in return, if you can.  For example, offer to drive or pay for gas if someone wanted to accompany you on a scouting/hunting trip.  Or offer to meet up at some public place for coffee or beer to chat about hunting.  In other words, come looking to make friends, not just to gather intel. 

California has a depredation compensation program for pig damage to private land owners.  To be compensated for damage, do these land owners have to allow access to hunters?

To the best of my knowledge, there is no requirement for public access.  Usually, the program provides a depredation permit to the landowner or his “agents” to kill problem pigs, and that’s about it.  The permit generally allows alternative methods, such as night hunting and trapping.  I’m not sure how many ranchers actually see fiscal compensation for hog depredation. 

That said, I do know that the DFG is (or was) working on adding hog hunting properties to the SHARE program, however I haven’t heard much more on that since the effort was announced.  Keep an eye out when the new booklets come out for 2010-2011 for announcements on this program.

My preference is to hunt private land, for which I am willing to pay.  What is the typical daily trespass fee to be allowed onto private property?

Private land “tresspass fees” and guided hunt costs vary pretty widely.  For the most part, you’ll see prices from $400 on up, depending on the level of service and accomodations.  The cheapest that I know of personally is over at Bryson-Hesperia Resort, with day-hunt packages beginning around $200 for an unguided hog hunt.  That’s a great price, and right now is a perfect time to get out there, as the barley crop is coming up and the pigs are more predictable coming to the food source. 

One of my favorite places, but a bit of a drive from Sacramento, is the Tejon Ranch.  Tejon offers a monthly “Wild Hog Management Hunt” from December through June every year.  At a cost of $450, this is an excellent hunt on one of the premier properties in California.  The hunt is a weekend hunt, running from Friday noon through Sunday noon.  Hunters are allowed to take one hog, and hogs are plentiful on the ranch.  It’s a hunt I strongly recommend to new hog hunters in this state, as the opportunity for success is high, and there are usually plenty of other helpful hunters around during the weekend to offer suggestions, tips, or even an extra set of hands to get that big boar out of a steep canyon. 

Another option is to join one of the clubs like Wilderness Unlimited or Golden Ram Sportsmen’s Club.  These clubs lease properties in many areas around the state, and members have access to all of the properties to hunt various game, from upland and waterfowl to hogs, deer, and bear.  Initial costs may seem a little steep, but for the hunter who will utilize the properties several times per year, it’s worth the investment.  I’m currently a member at Golden Ram, by the way, and I’ve found it to be worth every penny for good hunting on private lands. 

Assuming there are pigs in an area, how many acres need to be accessible to actually shoot one?

That’s a tricky question.  The fact is, if you know of a small farm, food source, or waterhole that’s getting hit by hogs, you don’t need a lot of property.  A few acres will do.  However, to keep a huntable population of hogs on a property, you need a good combination of food, water, and bedding shelter.  Without all three, you may have thousands of acres without a realistically huntable population. 

Hogs cover a lot of ground during their daily travels.  In many places, they’ll literally travel for miles between bed, food, and water (although when possible, they like to bed relatively close to their water source).  They are not, by nature, nocturnal animals, but they will adopt night-time habits quickly in the face of hunting pressure.  Once they do, it can be really tough to catch them in transit.  For this reason, a bigger piece of land would be optimal, since it would allow you to distribute the hunting pressure without focusing on a single location. 

For what it’s worth, when I was looking (unsuccessfully) to buy a piece of land to hunt on, I was pretty set on nothing less than a half-section (320 acres).  That’s big enough to allow me to set aside “sanctuary” areas, manage food plots, and also to go out without crossing my own tracks every time I hit the field.  By limiting hunting pressure to myself and a couple of friends, I figured that would be sufficient.  However, there’s nothing to say you couldn’t be successful on 100 acres, or even 50.  I doubt you could successfully hunt a smaller place on a regular basis… at least not in the typical CA habitat. 

How much hunting pressure will drive hogs to abandon an area?

Again, the answer will vary a bit from situation to situation.  The single, best answer is to limit hunting pressure on any small area as much as possible.  In some cases, one hunter can ruin an area for days or even months.  In other cases, there are places that can be hunted hard time and again without driving the hogs away. 

As with any other game, the keys are availability of food, water, and bedding shelter.  If you have a consistent supply of all three of these in an area, then that area will withstand a good bit of hunting without losing your hogs.   This is particularly true for a food source, like barley or other crops.  When the barley is coming in, hunters can (and do) pound the hogs hard and they just keep coming back (assuming the herd is plentiful).  The same goes for isolated water sources… the hogs have to have it, and they’ll keep coming.  The biggest factor you’ll deal with here is the hogs becoming more nocturnal.  They won’t leave the area, but your chances of seeing them in the daylight get slimmer with every hunt. 

Travel corridors can also take a pretty good beating.  Hogs tend to use the same general paths to food and water (with minor variations).   Moderate pressure on these corridors can translate into consistent success and a reliable area for later hunts. 

One thing you’ll want to avoid is hitting the bedding areas too hard.  This is the “safe zone” for hogs, and if they feel that it’s not safe anymore, they will pack up and move.  I don’t know of any magic number of hunts that trigger the exodus, but once they leave a bedding area it may be a very long time before they return. 

A final note about hunting pressure.  In many cases, simply because there are a lot of hunters in a place doesn’t necessarily mean the hogs will be driven off.  Keep in mind that the majority of hunters, both on public and private land, barely enter the outer edges of prime hog habitat.  Most of these folks will seldom stray far from a road or major trailhead.  If you’re willing to get off the beaten track, your odds of success go way up.  I’ve certainly found this to be the case on most of the properties I’ve hunted, from public plots to Tejon Ranch. 

Again, I hope some of this is helpful information.  I’m also open to suggestions, corrections, additions, or recommendations from any of you readers out there.

One of the questions I get fairly regularly is, “what kind of handgun should I get for hogs?”

I’ve touched on this a time or two before, but I don’t think I’ve actually dedicated an entire post to answering this question.  I’m not a handgunning expert, and honestly, I’m not all that great with a pistol.  But I do occasionally hunt with one, and I’ve killed a couple animals with it.  Besides, the key concepts have nothing to do with my personal abilities… So let’s have a look at it now.

First of all, what do you really intend to do with this gun?  Will it be a primary hunting weapon, or is it going to be a “back-up”?  Or do you expect this be an all-around tool, for hunting, back-up, plinking, and self-defense?  This is an important question before you run out and spend several hundred dollars on a new handgun, because the fact is that there’s not really any such thing as the Swiss Army Knife of handguns.  Handguns are designed for specific purposes, and while there’s certainly some crossover, you need to be very clear what the primary purpose is going to be.

With that in mind, if you want a handgun primarily for hog hunting, you’ll want something with enough “oomph” to cleanly and quickly kill these tough animals.  You’ll also want something with reasonable accuracy, that’s easy to handle, and that can withstand the rough use that hog hunting usually dishes out.  Several states also have specific minimum requirements for a hunting handgun, such as minimum caliber and barrel length.  That’s going to rule out a lot of stuff on the market.  

Before we get too far down this road, let’s give a quick mention to the Thompson Contender  handguns (and other similar, single-shot platforms).  While there’s no question that these are, technically, handguns they really exist in a category to themselves.  Chambered in everything from rimfire to big-bore rifle calibers, the Contenders are supremely accurate and versatile.  They are an excellent choice for hunting purposes.  However, these aren’t what most people have in mind when they ask about handguns.

That said, I’m going to focus on more traditional handguns, semi-autos and revolvers.  Each of these has it’s own strengths and weaknesses, not to mention their faithful adherents.  There are dozens of articles out there that compare the pros and cons of revolvers vs. semi-autos, and I don’t really want to rehash them here except to summarize the key points: 

• Revolvers generally have the edge in ease of use and reliability, while semi-autos offer larger magazine capacity and faster follow-up shots. 
• Revolvers are available in a wider range of appropriate big-game calibers.
• When it comes to accuracy, most shooters will find that revolvers with longer barrels are more accurate than semi-automatics.

Exceptions abound, of course.  With a reasonable amount of practice, a semi-auto can become second-nature to shoot quickly and accurately.  My friend, Ron Gayer is practically joined at the hip to his Desert Eagle .44mag, and I wouldn’t want to be the hog on the downrange end of that thing.  He loves it because it’s wicked medicine for a charging boar… fast, accurate, and powerful.  I can’t disagree. You can also find semi-autos in powerful calibers like the .50 Action Express, which is certainly plenty for a hog. 

But personally, my tastes trend toward a solid, single-action revolver like my Ruger Super Blackhawk.  There are only two things required to shoot this thing… cock the hammer and pull the trigger.  It’s not as fast as a semi-auto, or even the double-action revolvers, but you can count on this gun to cycle and fire.  An added benefit of the Ruger frame is that it can handle extremely hot loads that would dismantle many other revolvers on the market (and which be would totally unsafe to use in semi-autos). 

There’s something to be said for the double-action revolvers too, because they sort of cross the border between revolver and semi-auto.  By firing the first shot single-action, you can optimize the accuracy of the initial shot.  Then, should the circumstances call for it, you can continue to fire double-action until you’ve cycled the entire cylinder or the “threat” is eliminated.  Unfortunately, in most production models, the trigger pull for double-action is pretty stiff which has a significant, negative impact on accuracy.  A little work by a qualified gunsmith can resolve this problem, though, and might be worth the expense if you intend to use the gun a lot.  However, double-action revolvers are generally heavier and bulkier than single-action.  Without the extra work on the action, many hunters (including me) simply won’t see any benefit over a single-action. 

So there’s what I’ve got to offer on selecting a style and action.  A good bit of this decision should be based on your personal preference, of course, but I would definitely suggest giving some consideration to what I have written here, as well as what others have written on the subject.

So what about caliber?  How big of a gun do you need for hog hunting? 

First of all, as I’ve said before, you don’t need a howitzer to kill hogs, but you can’t use a pop-gun either.  I still remember an old farmhand slaughtering hogs with a .22 short, and I’ve finished off several hogs with my Browning 9mm.  But then again, slaughtering hogs at powderburn range is not hunting.  As hunters, we have a  responsibility to use enough gun to ensure a clean kill under hunting conditions. So how big is big enough? 

There are some handgun calibers out there that are simply insane, and totally unnecessary.  In that group, I include rounds like the Smith and Wesson  .500.  This opinion may offend a few folks, but I’ve shot this round and it is simply more than the average hunter can handle… and it’s more than the average hog hunter needs. 

In my opinion, for a primary hunting handgun, I’d recommend nothing smaller than the .41mag, and I’d prefer the .44mag.  The uptick in recoil is worth the trade off when it comes to the edge in terminal performance.  In my own experience, even the .44mag has a decidedly un-exciting impact on big pigs, and short of a perfect hit, will often take more than one round to seal the deal.  If you can handle the recoil, I’d suggest going even bigger, to the .454 Casull or .460 S&W.  However, recoil is a definite consideration for these big-bore hand cannons.  You have to be realistic about your capabilities, or you’re doomed to frustration.  There are some ways to deal with this, and we’ll tackle that in a minute.

The .45 Long Colt is another good option, with a critical qualification…  regular factory loads for this round are designed for antique revolvers.  Because of this, these loads are generally mild, and don’t offer the kind of thump you’ll want for a bigger hog.  For hog hunting, you’ll want to either handload “hot”, or look into some souped-up factory ammo from companies like Cor-Bon .  With stout loads and good bullets, the .45lc is a hog-killing machine!

I know there are a lot of folks out there who are sold on their .357mag, but the truth is that it’s a marginal round for big hogs.  A .357mag simply doesn’t hit hard enough or penetrate well enough to be considered a primary hog hunting round. I’ve got reliable, first-hand reports from several hunters who’ve had close calls or lost animals following multiple hits with this round. 

The .357 is fine as a back-up, if you think you’ll be using it for finishing shots or really close action.  It’s lightweight, easy for most people to shoot, and totally packable.  It’s also a reasonable choice for personal and home defense… particularly in a good, double-action configuration.  But for a primary hog gun, I would not recommend it.

When it comes to semi-autos, I get a lot of questions about the .40S&W and the .45ACP.  These rounds are both proven man-stoppers (the .45acp is, arguably, one of the first calibers designed for the express purpose of killing humans), but hogs are a heck of a lot tougher than people.  Neither of these rounds offers the penetration and terminal performance to make a good choice for a primary hog gun.  As with the .357, both would be fine for back-up purposes.  For a primary hunting gun in semi-auto, I’d look into the specialty guns such as Magnum Research’s  Desert Eagle in .44mag or .50AE.   

Now, let’s talk a second about recoil. 

Several hunters have asked me about a good hunting handgun for wives or youngsters who can’t handle the stiff recoil of, say, a .44mag.  The .41mag isn’t much more stout than the .357, and that’s about the best advice I’ll offer.  The bottom line is, you need a powerful handgun to consistently and cleanly kill hogs, and powerful handguns come with powerful recoil.  You can’t package that much energy in such a small platform without expecting some of that energy to transfer to the shooter. 

And that’s the first tip for minimizing recoil… a heavier gun will absorb more recoil than a light one.  I know folks often want to minimize weight, and there are some pretty cool innovations out there, such as the titanium frames that allow gunmakers to develop some insanely lightweight hand-cannons.  However, the trade-off is generally significant felt recoil (although good configuration can alleviate some of that).  A solid frame, longer barrel, and good grips will reduce felt recoil quite a bit. 

The other important tip is that practice teaches you to deal with the recoil.  The more you shoot, the more you’ll learn to process the kick.  Practice with light loads is also useful for developing your trigger control and sight picture without dealing with the heavy recoil of hunting loads. 

Even so, these big guns will hit back.  My Blackhawk with a 7.5″ barrel weighs close to 3lbs., and with hot handloads it still thumps me pretty hard.  The S&W Performance Shop .500 I test-fired weighed something like 5lbs, and was ported, and it still felt like holding a grenade in my hands when it went off.  The point is, big handguns have big recoil… if that’s an issue for you or your shooter, then a hog hunting handgun may not be the right choice.

What about accuracy?

Practice makes almost perfect.  Shooting a handgun accurately is not unlike shooting a bow.  You should practice until the muscle memory makes proper form and stance seem like second nature.  You need to hold the gun the same way, acquire your sight picture the same way, and pull the trigger the same way every time if you expect the bullet to hit where you’re aiming.  Let the basics lag for a moment and you’ll either miss or wound the animal. 

Most modern handguns are reasonably accurate, but it’s critical to recognize that you shouldn’t bring rifle accuracy expectations to the handgun range… at least not at first.  It takes a lot of practice for most people to develop the proper form and control to shoot a handgun with extreme accuracy.  Even then, minute-of-angle accuracy is uncommon in handguns (again, the single-shot Thompson Center-styled guns are a key exception).  In the hands of the average hunter, with production guns and standard ammo, a handgun is not a 100 yard gun.  In fact, I’d go so far to say that most hunters shouldn’t be shooting much over 50 or 60 yards at live animals with a handgun… even with a scope. Closer is better.

Another accuracy tip comes by way of my friend and real shooting expert, Andy Moe.  Andy’s standard recommendation for anyone looking to get into handgunning is to skip that big-bore gun at first.  Go ahead and buy a .22 and learn to shoot it well first.  This will allow you to learn the basics and get proficient without developing the bad habits and flinches that most new handgunners get from the big guns.  It’s excellent advice, and while it’s hard to follow in these days of instant gratification, I totally agree with him. 

A few other things regarding accuracy…

Longer barrels tend to enhance accuracy by providing a longer sighting plane, adding weight to reduce felt recoil, and adding stability by making the gun a little front-heavy.  They also help to limit muzzle flip, which doesn’t so much impact the accuracy of the shot as it does the ability to re-acquire the target.  Short-barreled guns can be very accurate in experienced hands, but for most hunters, 5 1/2″ to 7 1/2″ barrels are a good choice. 

You can change the grips on most handguns, so if the factory grips don’t feel right (too bulky, too small, etc.) it might help your shooting to change them out.  Pachmayr is one of the industry leaders in this area.  You may also be able to find a gunsmith who can help you fit the gun. 

The last consideration I want to hit on is ammunition choices.  In general, you’re looking for the same qualities in a handgun round that you want from your rifle ammo.  Pigs have thick skin, a heavy layer of fat, and big boars carry the cartiledge shield.  You need a bullet that penetrates well and retains its mass as it drives through the animal.  A lot of handgun hunters are big fans of cast lead bullets, because they offer all of the attributes mentioned here.  Another great choice is the Barnes DPX copper bullets.  Remember that most self-defense handgun rounds are designed to expand quickly and explosively, which makes them a poor choice for hog hunting. 

If you think handgun hog hunting is for you, it’s a great way to add a new dimension to the experience.  It combines the close-range excitement of bowhunting  with the confidence of using a firearm.  Add to that the simple fun of shooting handguns, and it’s a pretty good deal.  However, keep in mind that, just like bowhunting, you need to practice a lot to be effective.  Handgunning requires commitment.

I just received another one today, and thought that, for a change, I’d share the email with all of you HogBlog readers in hopes that maybe ya’ll can offer some of your own suggestions, on top of my own (mine will follow).  So here’s what I got from CMJ.

Greetings from Yuba City,
 
I have been a hunter all my life except for the 20 years between college and now. I have stayed up on my shooting but havent been able to get out into the woods (and range) due to working and family and such.
 
Now I have the time, the gear (out of date, I am sure) and the inclination to bag some wildlife. I really want to get into hunting pigs.  I am no more that 90 minutes from the Red Bluff area; ditto the Clear Lake region.  None of my local companions are interested and so I am going to be on my own.
 
Can you give me the 3 basic tips to get a start?
 
Thank you for your time.

“Three basic tips…”   

Narrowing it down to only three tips is a pretty tall order when it comes to hunting wild hogs.  There’s a lot to say, but I like the challenge! 

Tip #1 -  Go Where There Are Pigs

Do some research to find out where the hogs are living.  There are certainly some pigs in both of the areas you mention, although finding them on public land will likely prove to be a real challenge.  Actually, finding hogs on public land anywhere in this state is a low-odds proposition.  But they’re out there, and folks are killing them on public land.  But you’ll have to work at it, because I can almost promise only a really good friend will give up a truly productive area. 

Which means you need to do your own detective work.  This email was a good start.  I’d recommend also touching base with the DFG biologists for the areas you’re thinking about hunting.  Their general, first answer you’ll get is that the hogs in places like Clear Lake and Tehama are largely transient.  If you go there, you’ll find sign, but the hogs left that sign on the way to private land where the feed is better, the water is more plentiful, and the hunting pressure is lighter.  This is where your hunting skills come into play.  The successful hunter is the one who figures out when, and where, these pigs are crossing the public land (the where is not too tough, and the when is usually in the dark of night). 

My main recommendation to anyone hoping to get out and find hogs is to go with a guide, though.  I know it seems expensive, but look at it this way.  It generally takes repeat trips to public land just to find hogs, and once you add up fuel, time spent, and the expenses of a road trip, you’re spending about the same money as you would for one guided hunt.  The trade-off is that a day or two with a guide can provide you with a ton  of learning that you can later apply on do-it-yourself trips. 

Tip #2 - Gear selection

The great thing about hog hunting is that it really doesn’t require a ton of gear.  All you need is a good pair of boots, comfortable clothes for the weather conditions, binoculars, and your chosen weapon.  So let’s take a quick look at these components.

Boots sort of go without saying.  Hunting CA presents a lot of hiking in moderate to blazing hot weather, and the ground is covered with spiky plants, burrs, and other stuff that you just don’t want poking you in the ankles or dropping down inside your shoes.  High tops are pretty much required.

Comfort is the top priority here, because as any western hunter knows, nothing will ruin a hunt faster than sore, tired feet.  While many hunting boot makers are starting to design lightweight, warm-weather boots, be careful.  The majority of “hunting” boots are designed for eastern whitetail hunters, and are loaded with insulation.  You don’t want that for humping the ridges and canyons, because your feet will be soaked in sweat in no time.  I often tell folks to take a look at hiking boots, where you’ll find a lot of variety and options. 

Waterproof boots are a bonus, but only required for part of the season in most of this state.  I still think they’re a good idea just because I like having gear that is useful for all around use… not to mention that some of the best hog hunting is in the cold, wet season. 

Everybody has different preferences in what makes boots comfortable, so you’ll need to try some different ones to determine what suits you.  It’s worth the time, and worth the money to get good boots.  However, good boots are not always the most expensive.  I’ve been real happy with the LL Bean Maine Hunting boot, which runs about $89.  Of course, a lot of guys are crazy about the Danner boots.   

Clothing is a wide-open category.  Honestly, you can hunt quite successfully in a business suit if you’re so inclined.  Of course you want practicality, which includes durable fabric that provides protection from the elements in which you’re hunting.  Clothing designed specifically for hunters generally takes this into account, which is its best selling point.  You’ll also do well with military surplus, since it’s designed for rugged, outdoor use.  It used to be the way to go for a hunter on a budget, but milsurp has become “fashionable” and the cost has gone up with the demand.  A decent set of BDU pants costs as much as anything you’ll get from Mossy Oak or RealTree. 

A note about camo… I’ve written before about this stuff, but the bottom line is, it’s not necessary, so it certainly doesn’t make any difference which pattern or design you choose… or if you choose to use none.  I would avoid solid dark colors or large expanses of white, but other than that whatever you’re comfortable wearing should be fine.  I’ve been threatening this for years, and I’m gonna do it… I’ll video a hog hunt wearing Hawaiian shirts just to prove my point.

On to optics…

The standard axiom is that when it comes to optics, get the best you can afford because quality is generally proportional to cost.  I tend to agree with this perspective.   Big game hunting in the west usually involves a lot of glassing, and the more time you spend staring through binoculars, the more you’ll come to appreciate a clear, bright image.  Still, any binos are better than no binos at all.  What you absolutely should NEVER do is get into the habit of using your riflescope for glassing. 

What about riflescopes?  Keep it simple.  Again, you want the best quality you can afford, but you don’t need a hand-held Hubble, either.  The basic 3-9×40 is a great, all-around configuration for big game hunting.  In a quality scope, this provides plenty of power and light-gathering ability for acquiring and targeting, while it’s small and light enough not to be a hindrance while hiking. 

The other consideration here is that the high-power scopes bring additional complications, primarily parallax.  Once you get over 10 or 12 power magnification, your point of aim and point of impact begin to diverge.  Of course quality, high-power scopes allow you to adjust for parallax, but my argument here is that you’re now dealing with one more factor.  Hunting situations often require quick reaction, and by adding one more adjustment to deal with you’re handicapping yourself. 

A last note on scopes, and it should go without saying but I see folks forget it all the time… ALWAYS set your scope to the lowest power setting except when you’re getting ready to shoot.  As soon as you’re done shooting, set it back down.  This habit will pay off when you stumble over that close-range hog as you’re hiking through the chemise.  At high power, you’ll have a really hard time finding your target. 

And to that last piece of gear… the weapon. 

Hogs are, nominally, a dangerous game animal.  Sure, they’re not grizzlies or cape buffalo, but they’re tough and have the potential (and recommendation) to really ruin your day.  When you try to kill one, you want to be successful… not only because you want a humane kill, but because you don’t want to risk personal harm.

When it comes to hog rifles, I’m not sure I fully get behind the .30 caliber or better “rule” that many guides and experts call for, but I do get behind the rationale for that rule.  Use enough gun.  You want to deliver plenty of energy, combined with accuracy.  I think this can be achieved nicely with the .270 and 7mm class of firearms.  I’ve killed hogs with smaller calibers, and I know it’s done on a regular basis, but the margin of error gets smaller with the caliber you choose.  For hunting the conditions most common in CA, I’d definitely recommend going bigger (within reason).  You may be shooting anywhere from archery distances to a couple-hundred yards (further if you’re skilled at long-range shooting).  You want a caliber that will still deliver deadly energy, even if placement isn’t perfect. 

This is where the 30-06 or .300 tends to outshine something like the .243 and 6mm.  As much as we like to think we’re dead-eye marksmen, field shooting is fraught with uncontrolled circumstances and even the best hunter has made a bad hit.  With a poorly placed shot, a bigger, more powerful round is more likely to do more damage than a smaller, less powerful round.  That seems like a “duh” statement, I know.  Then why do so many people insist on using tiny guns to shoot hogs?

OK, so point being… if you’re rifle hunting, go with something from .270 on up.  A 30-06 has the reputation of being “the best all around” for a reason, and I like it a lot for deer hunting.  However, I will say that if you only have a .243, .260, or .257, then you can still hunt hogs.  Just be conscientious about your shot choices, keep the ranges moderate, and wait for a good target as if you were bowhunting.

Speaking of bowhunting…  any good, modern bow pulling at least 50 lbs will be fine for hogs.  Most hog hunters like a larger, fixed-blade broadhead.  When I was hunting with my recurve, I used a 140gr., two-bladed Magnus point.   However with my compound, I’m so far pretty happy with a 100gr, fixed broadhead… mostly because they are shooting really well with my bow.  Accuracy is critical, and I’m happier with the accuracy of the 100gr over the 125 and 140s. 

And that leads us to Tip #3.

Tip #3 is a simple warning… Hog hunting is addictive! 

Take heed, if you start hunting wild hogs, you will get hooked.  I don’t know how you couldn’t.  First of all, they’re a great, challenging animal to hunt, but they’re not insanely difficult.  If you’re in a productive area, they’re probably a little easier than deer.  If you’re in a tougher spot, like public land, the rewards of finding a hog are hard to describe and a heady brew for the lucky hunter.  Either way, they’re an awesome quarry.

Second, you can hunt them all year long, which means there’s no off-season.  Don’t wanna mow the yard?  Go hog hunting.  Don’t want to shovel snow?  Go hog hunting.  Your favorite football or basketball team is sucking this year?  Go hog hunting! 

And finally, they’re delicious!  Even folks who generally don’t like wild game such as venison or ducks, love wild pork!  And a single pig provides a freezer full of sausage, pork chops, ribs, and roasts. 

So before you start, you need to know going in that once you dive into hog hunting, you’re in deep.  You’ll dream about hogs, talk about hogs, see hog trails and sign on every hillside, and start looking for new places and methods to hunt them.  And there is no twelve-step program for this addiction. 

Good luck with it!

Now, to anyone who’s still reading (I’ve topped 2000 words), what would be YOUR three tips to CMJ?

 The idea is to present a group of instructional videos, targeted at new hunters.  More and more hunters are coming to the sport later in life, without the benefit of a family tradition and the mentors that many of us may take for granted.  With no one teaching them, how do they learn? 

 That’s the niche that Ron is looking to fill.  As a guide, he says his favorite clients were the new hunters, eager to learn and extremely excited about the entire experience (a sentiment I completely share).  Teaching them, and enabling new hunters to get a leg up in the sport, has really become something of a mission for him.  Hence, this video series.

I had the pleasure of taking a look at the first iteration of Volume 1 of the Guide’s Guide DVD series, The Complete Guide to Wild Hog Field Care.  This volume provides a complete, step-by-step introduction to handling your hog after you’ve got it down.  Of note is that he shows you both how to field dress and skin a meat hog, and also shows a simple method for caping a trophy boar as well… something many field dressing websites don’t go into.

Now, I’ll be honest and say that if you’re looking at this with the eye of a critic, the video has its little issues.  The pacing starts out a little slow.  It’s important to remember that this is instructional, and not specifically intended to be entertainment.  However, once things loosen up the pacing improves. 

The positives far outweigh the little “opportunities for improvement”, though.  Of particular note is the clean, but realistic field dressing demonstration.  The camera doesn’t shy away from anything, from separating the anus (first step in traditional field dressing procedure) to clearing the chest cavity.  While nothing can compare to hands-on learning for something like this, if you pay attention as Ron goes through these pigs, you’ll be well prepared when the time comes to get your own hands bloody.

I spoke to Ron on the phone after watching the video, and we discussed some of my critique, as well as some ideas he has for improvement.  I expect that future iterations of this video will show some significant upgrades. 

Of course, the truest test of these videos will be in the testimonials of the intended audience, new hunters.  Several copies of the video have been sold at Ron’s seminar appearances, but he is just now getting his website up and running to expand the market a bit.  He has not enabled eCommerce, but on the site you’ll find the information needed to order a copy directly. 

As I mentioned, this is only the first of a series of four initial DVD offerings.  The other three are:

• The Total Turkey Tutorial
• Hunting Strategies for Hogs
• From Bench to Field: Guns and Optics

These should come out throughout the coming year.  Ron hopes to have the entire series complete by January, 2010.  I’ll keep this site updated as each release is ready, and hopefully will have the opportunity to review them as they’re available.

I did a more formal article and review on this video over at the Jesse’s Hunting and Outdoor Journal.

It’s important to understand that the price does not always reflect the quality of the habitat or hunting.  Many of the less expensive hunts offer great hunting on prime land, and generally have 100% success rates, just like the more expensive places.  The differentiating factors generally include the availability and quality of lodging, amenities, and services.  How comfortable to you want to be? 

The price of a guided hunt has jumped several hundred bucks in only a couple of years, but it isn’t any cheaper to run guided hunts these days either.   Overhead for a guided hunting operation can be pretty significant.  First of all, consider that a guide must be licensed and bonded.  That’s a couple-hundred bucks a year right there.  Small potatoes overall, for a successful operation.  But then there’s insurance, which can run a couple thousand for a small outfitter, and a lot more for someone who’s running a big place with lodging, employees, quads, and dogs or stock.  Add in the cost of leasing property, maintaining equipment, and fuel, and a guide or outfitter will have to really start watching the bottom line or they’ll end up on the red side of the ledger in a hurry.

Here’s an example of how it all adds up. 

An outfitter runs hunts over several thousand acres in the Central Coast area for pigs, turkeys, and blacktail deer.  For a pig hunt, this outfitter charges $600.  That cost covers two days of hunting for one hunter, and allows the hunter to shoot one hog.  This outfitter also guarantees that the hunter will have a shot opportunity on a hog, so if there’s no opportunity, the hunter returns for free or gets a refund. 

This outfitter runs about six hunters per week, so that’s a weekly income of $3600.  Success ratios for guided pig hunts are pretty high, but let’s just say one hunter never had a reasonable shot opportunity, so he’ll get his $600 back.  Now, the lease agreement with the landowner has the outfitter paying $100 for each pig taken. 

Already, the outfitter has trimmed $1100 from that original income.  Still, $2500 seems like a reasonable income for the week, right?   $10,000 a month is a good income for anyone.  To make that much money for “hunting” sounds like a dream come true to a lot of folks. 

Don’t forget to add in the other costs of doing business. 

First of all, there’s vehicles and their maintenance… not to mention, fuel.  We can estimate, conservatively, a monthly cost of about $1500 if nothing breaks down.   Remember that a successful guide is in the field all the time, not just when there’s a hunt.  Scouting, field work, etc., are just as important as hauling a hunter into the woods.  Running vehicles over that steep, dusty, and rugged country plays hell on a vehicle, so a smart outfitter will be sure to set aside extra for repairs which can run into the thousands.  Spaced over the course of a year he puts aside an additional $500 per month.  So our guide’s monthly income of $10,000 is now $8000. 

A single outfitter could probably manage six hunters if the hunts were spaced out through the week, but since most hunts occur on the weekend that’s too many people for a single guide.  There’s got to be an assistant.  The pay for a second guide can vary pretty widely, but $200/day isn’t unreasonable.    That second guide works eight days out of the month, for a tab of $1600.  This leaves $6400 for our hard-working outfitter at the end of the month. 

$6400 a month is still not bad.  That’s better than $75K a year. 

Oh yeah, licenses, bonding, and insurance need to come off of that total.  Then there’s the cost of feeding the staff and hunters each weekend, plus the cost of the lodge upkeep (even a rustic cabin requires upkeep).  Incidental costs come along with the whole.  Before long, that annual income doesn’t seem so substantial, especially considering the work involved. 

When all is said and done, an outfitter really isn’t seeing a huge return on a $600 hunt.  As the costs of doing business increase (insurance, fuel, real estate, etc.), the costs of the hunt have to increase as well, or it’s simply not worth the time or effort for the outfitter.  Remember, they’re in business to make money.  Sure, I don’t know an outfitter or guide who doesn’t love the work they do, but if they’re losing money, they won’t be doing it for long.

Some other considerations…

Trophy Fees

When you’re booking a guided hunt, one thing you want to ask about is “trophy fees”.  Some guides charge them, and some don’t.  The rationale is that a guide has to work harder to help the client take a real trophy.  On a good property, simply finding a pig to shoot is a fairly straightforward proposition.  However, finding a trophy generally takes longer and requires more effort.

Trophy fees can vary from operation to operation, just as does the definition of “trophy”.  Usually, a trophy is any boar with tusks over two inches long (based on the bottom tusks, or cutters), but be sure you ask.  There is no standard definition, and you really need to know what you’ll be getting into before you have that sucker in the crosshairs. 

Some outfitters will charge a flat fee for a “trophy” boar.  Looking around at some of the CA outfitters, it seems like most flat fees are in the range of $150-$250.    In most cases, this charge is only assessed when the boar is dead.  However, some outfits charge extra for a trophy hunt, regardless of what size animal is taken. 

Other outfits charge “by the inch”, so the trophy fee is a certain amount for every inch over the minimum trophy size.  There are a handful of folks who break it down even further, to the fraction of an inch.  You can imagine how tricky this can get, both as the client and the guide.

As a client you have every right to know exactly what you’ll be charged when you go into the field.  Part of the guide’s responsibility is the ability to accurately judge a trophy, and you are perfectly within your rights  to demand that the guide take responsibility if he underestimates the trophy quality.  You should not pay for the guide’s mistake. 

Personally, this is one of the reasons I don’t like trophy fees.  Two inches of tusk can be hard to spot at a distance, and judging the difference between four inches and three inches is a challenge to the most educated eye.  I’ve known more than one hunter who has shot a fine boar, only to find that the cost of his hunt nearly doubled with one pull of the trigger. 

Economical Alternatives…

There’s a lot of value that comes with a good, guided hunt.  In addition to prime properties, service, and amenities, a guide brings a wealth of knowledge to the game.  For new hunters, I almost always recommend hiring a guide for the initial foray.  There’s a lot to learn, and a guide can provide it all in one or two outings as opposed to the years it may take to learn on your own.

Even so, many hunters insist on doing it the hard way and learning in the field.  Others can’t afford a guided hunt, even if they wanted to.  Then there are those who are already accomplished hog hunters, but just need someplace to go. 

For these hunters, a good option is the semi-guided or unguided hunt.  In semi-guided hunts, the operator will provide intel regarding where the animals have been, and some successful tactics for getting them.  Sometimes the operator will come into the field with you, but many times they’ll point you in the right direction and send you on your way.  Some offer to help with recovery and care of the carcass, but most leave those chores to the hunter. 

Unguided hunts are exactly what they sound like.  In these hunts, you are basically paying for access to the property.  There may, or may not be game available 

While semi-guided and unguided hunts aren’t particularly common in CA, you can still find them in the range of $200/day (Bryson Resort) to $550 for a two-day hunt (Tejon Ranch). 

Additional Charges…

Besides the cost of the hunt, what else might you expect to pay for on a guided hunt?

While many outfits field dress and skin your hog as part of the package, there are some places that charge extra for this service.  Again, it’s up to you as the client to find out the details and specify what you’re looking for.  If you want a trophy caped out for the taxidermist, this is often an additional charge, even when basic skinning is free.  If you want the outfitter to field dress, skin, or cape your hog, you should mention that when you book.  Don’t wait until you get there, especially if you are not prepared to do the work yourself.  

Food, beverage, and lodging are not always included in the cost of a mult-day hunt.  Be sure to ask about this as well.  Normally, the outfitter will tell you if you need to provide your own room and board, but as a smart consumer you shouldn’t ever take anything for granted.  Ask about everything.  You may think you’ll come off as annoying, but that’s better than getting to the hunt and finding you don’t have a place to sleep.

Finally, and this is a big one… tipping.  It’s one of these great big secrets of the industry,”how much do I tip my guide?”

If you’re booking your hunt through a broker or a large outfitter, it’s fair to ask when you book.  However, it’s not considered great etiquette to ask that of the guide himself (would you ask a waitress how much to tip?).  If you do ask the guide, you’ll most likely get a non-committal answer like, “whatever you feel is right,” or “you don’t have to tip anything.” 

Personally, I try to set a standard of 10% of the base cost of the hunt.  If I had an exceptional hunt, or if the guide really busted his ass for me, then of course I’ll try to tip more.  Keep in mind, as well, that you should tip whether you’re successful or not.  It’s not usually the guide’s fault you didn’t get an animal (if it is, see what I have to say below). 

I also follow the same basic rules for tipping that I’d use elsewhere.  I tip the person who gave me service, unless that person is the owner of the company.  If the service sucks, I usually will tip a minimum amount (sometimes less than my customary 10%), but I will also express my concerns to the outfitter or owner.  A good business man will make it right with the customer, and odds are that a guide who gets too much negative feedback will soon be in another line of work. 

Simply stiffing a guide without giving a reason and without notifying the management is non-productive.  Not only does the guide not learn that they’re doing wrong, the management has no way of knowing and that guide may be turned loose on another hunter.  Do everyone a favor, and speak up. 

In a larger guided trip, like a fully outfitted elk hunt, I think it’s also right to tip the other staff, like the cook.  Plan accordingly before you go, so you don’t end up running short. 

That’s about all I can think of.  A guided hunt may seem expensive, but when you look at it from the right perspective, it’s not hard to see that most of these guys aren’t making a fortune off of your visit.  Of course, if you feel that it’s really not worth it, the best way to make your stance is with your pocketbook… don’t book with that outfitter. 

The most important thing though, is to prepare in advance by asking for detail during the booking process.  Very few outfitters are unscrupulous enough to intentionally hide costs, but sometimes they do expect you to read the fine print.  When in doubt, ask.