dustyvarmint’s Mostly Archery and Up North Journal are happy to announce a Game Camera Photo Contest – details below.

Prizes:

• First Prize is a custom made dustyvarmint woodworks 3 1/4″ sandblasted glass surface, cherry pot turkey call with cherry striker.

• Second prize is a package of broadheads donated by the Up North Journal.
• Third prize is a Flambeau Turkey Decoy.

Rules:

• Myself and Mike “Mikey” Adams from Up North Journal are the judges. Our decisions are final.
• mrs. dv, Lexus, Maggie and Up North Journal staff members are prohibited from entering.

Their lack of thumbs (and jobs to afford game cameras) prevent Lexus and Maggie from being real contenders…

• Entered photos are to be undoctored game/trail camera pictures of non-human animals from the field. Folks, this is for small stakes fun Mikey and I aren’t techno-wizards able to detect a ‘shopped photo – be honest. However, if we’re suspicious out it will go.
• You agree, by submitting the photo, to let dustyvarmint’s Mostly Archery and Up North Journal use the photo now and in the future for any tasteful purpose.
• Just one hint – If you’ve read dustyvarmint’s Mostly Archery for any length of time you know this isn’t about who has the biggest 200″ typical 8-pointer on camera.

Entry:

-Submit your photos to dustyvarmint@hotmail.com with your name, city and state.  I’ll post them weekly from now until December 26th, 2009 at which time we’ll choose a winner.

Good luck and start submitting your photos, dv

When the nesting instinct hits me I’m off to the shop to create a paracord wrist sling…

I told my buddy Seth the other day that I feel like I’m nesting – I stumbled onto Archery Talk’s DIY forum and I just can’t seem to get enough of those projects.  Maybe it’s related to my lack of success in the field from February through November.  I don’t know.  Anyway, I recently purchased a new bow (that’ll be the subject of a future blog) and wanted some accessories with a new paracord wrist sling chief among them.  I stress wanted over needed as I have a few old-style nylon strap ones lying about, but hey, that just doesn’t bling enough for a new bow. 

A commercially available wrist sling. 

I bought my first paracord wrist sling, the one pictured above, earlier this year for $3.59 while Overhauling a Hunting Bow.  I wish I could remember where.  They usually run $7.99 and up.  When I stumbled on the Archery Talk DIY Sling thread by user akgator about making one’s own I started rummaging through my cra., err, treasure in the basement. 

I needed the following materials:

• (3) lengths of 30-36″ long 550 paracord
• (1) piece of scrap leather at least 1 3/4″ wide x 4 1/4″ long and at least 1/8″ thick (thicker is better).
• (2) lengths of 12″ long small thread or cord.
• (2) lengths of 5/16″ heat shrink tubing 1/2″ long.
• Thick card stock – an old cereal box.

I couldn’t find the black paracord I only recently used to unstring a recurve (humphhh!), but found some green and a big hunk of leather.  Paracord is often available from Army/Navy surplus stores for around $7.99 per 100 feet.  Leather sources would include Tandy Leather or other local leather suppliers as well as old or Goodwill belts or bags.  I have all kinds of small thread/cord lying about and I had to buy the heat shrink tubing, twelve inches for $1.98, but I use that stuff all the time.  Since I could buy the sling for $7.99 I didn’t want to pay $7.99 times two for multiple colors so I decided to use the green I had on hand.  Also, a simple three-braid version fit my need quite well vice the fancier four-braid models. 

Step 1 – I made an outline of the leather piece from the commercially made sling using an old cereal box as template material.  It is attached here in .pdf file format for your convenience (’cause you’re a Mostly Archery reader and I love you…), Sling Leather Template (clicking the link will take you to another screen where you must click the link once again – weird, but it works).

The template and two leather pieces marked out. 

Step 2 – I was able to cut the shapes out of the leather with normal, but very sharp scissors.

Step 3 – I didn’t have punches for the holes, but did have some brad-point drill bits that I thought I’d try.  They worked surprisingly well.  The smaller, internal five holes are 5/16″ and the larger perimeter holes are 7/16″.  I saw where some folks said they used old aluminum arrows as punches by sharpening them.  See what is available and what works for you.  

Drilling holes in the leather. 

Step 4 – There wasn’t any leather dye hanging around the house so I used some wood stain.  Turned out well, I think.

The leather was dyed with some wood stain. 

Step 5 – I braided the cord by first lashing them together with the smaller thread/cord.  It was helpful to leave the ends long and hook them over a stationary object as pictured here in order to maintain tension.  To braid follow the mantra, “Right over middle, left over middle, right over middle, left over middle….”  Note that “middle” changes with each braid.  I made the braids as tight as my hands (they rebel in just a short amount of time) would allow as that will make the resulting sling more rigid.  If you don’t know how to braid see the photos below or go over to your mommy’s house with some flowers (or her good casserole dish she loaned you with the tuna and noodles) and ask for help.  The finished length on the commercial version was 21 inches, but whatever length you desire should be fine.  Finally, I lashed the ends together and applied the heat shrink tubing leaving about 1/16″ of it hanging over so when shrunk it covered the cord ends well.

The extra long ends of the lashing cords are handy for hooking onto a solid object.

Braiding, the beginning.

 Step 1, right over middle.

Step 2, left over middle.  

Step 3, right over middle. 

Step 4, left over middle. 

A few finished braids.

Step 6 – Assemble according to the below photo. 

There it is, one finished wrist sling. 

While doing research for this post I found references on how to make your own paracord bracelet that while giving you some roguish, outdoor personal bling also serves as a back up supply of paracord should you need it in an emergency – simply unravel the bracelet.  That’s just blasted smart!  Make one to match the colors in your wrist sling and you will be ssstylin’. 

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following: 

• dustyvarmint’s Best Black Bean Huntin’ Chili
• Photographing Your Hunting Trophies
• Overhauling A Hunting Bow
• Bringin’ Home the… Venison Breakfast Sausage

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Having used up all my feral hog sausage it was time to explore the freezer…

Earlier this year I used my last sacred package of feral hog breakfast sausage from P&P Deer Processing in Coalgate, OK.  It was celebratory and mournful all at once.  We connected with P&P from nearby Shiloh Ranch Hunting Camp where we hunted the tusky varmints for a couple of years.  Other pursuits have diverted us, but my preference for the tasty sausage has not diminished.  I like to pre-cook and freeze a pound of patties on Sunday and eat them throughout the week for breakfast.  With a little 2007 and quite a bit of 2008 venison as well as a little javelina meat from this year’s Texas adventure, Boar Attack – Anatomy Of A Hog Shot Gone Wrong, in the freezer I thought it was time to give breakfast sausage making a try. 

I’ve made ground meat jerky and snack sticks for years so I didn’t think it would be much of a stretch into breakfast sausage.  The directions on the LEM brand seasoning package called for cutting the venison with at least 20% pork so I asked mrs. dustyvarmint to pick up a slightly larger than one pound, well-marbled roast from the store.  One could probably not mix in the pork or other fat, but the end product would be very, very dry.  Since grinding slightly frozen meat helps to maintain lower processing temperatures and helps produce a better final product I froze the roast.  Later I pulled out the roast and slightly more than four pounds of venison from the freezer and let them partially thaw in the refrigerator.  I sliced them up into large strips for grinding and mixed the pork with the venison.  

Pork and venison, LEM brand sausage seasoning and ground meat packaging tubes.

Next, I ground the meat up making sure the venison and pork were well mixed.  Following the package directions, one teaspoon of seasoning was mixed with one ounce of cold water for every pound of meat.  Hands are really the best tool for mixing here, but boy does that get cold! 

The pork and venison ground.  (Sssshhh, don’t tell mrs. dustyvarmint her nice bamboo cutting board is being used as a riser for the grinder!)

I really like slicing up patties from partially thawed tubes of the sausage as shown below.  Not totally necessary, but very handy.  They go right in the skillet after that.  I was worried that my stuffer’s largest tube wouldn’t be big enough to fill the packages properly, but that turned out to be unfounded.  The first package turned out at about one-and-one-half pounds, but I got the hang of it after that.  The results are pictured below.

Stuffing the sausage packages. 

Finished sausage packages.

I couldn’t help myself, but to give it a try, so I waited just long enough for one package to partially freeze, sliced it up and put a fire under it.  It turned out quite… tasty.  A little crushed red pepper would probably be a good addition, but the test batch is out of the way.  While I prefer my chili, taco and burger grind to be really fine I think a slightly chunkier texture would be more appropriate for this sausage. 

When coupled with mrs. dustyvarmint’s drop biscuits the sausage was quite tasty…

Clean Up

All the grinder and stuffer components as well as the knives, cutting boards and other accessories get a nice hot water and soap bath as well as a chlorine dip after use.  Hopefully, that’ll keep the varmints (not the dusty ones) out.    

Equipment Used

mrs. dustyvarmint has been very kind to me with processing equipment over time.  Both the grinder and stuffer came from Gander Mountain on Black Friday sales – about $100 between the two.  The grinder has processed many deer, hogs and other wild game as well as domestic critters from time to time.  The stuffer produces snack sticks and other kinds of sausage as well as handling the packaging this time.  The meat tubs are actually dish pans, under $5 from Target, that fit in my refrigerator better than commercial versions.

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following: 

• Outfitter Report – Javelina And Hogs In Texas
• Boar Attack – Anatomy Of A Hog Shot Gone Wrong
• Pronghorn – Rained Out
• dustyvarmint’s Best Black Bean Huntin’ Chili

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See A Note On dv’s Gear Reviews and Gear Provider Recommendations.

Product:  Stealth Cam 12 volt Battery Kit 

The Stealth Cam 12 Volt Battery Kit, on the left.

Overall Rating:  ***+ (3.5 stars of 5) 

Specifications (from Stealth Cam website): 

-STC-12VBB

-12 volt

-Weather proof box  

-AC charger

Cost:  **** (4 stars of 5).  Typically $29.95, Wal-Mart (www.walmart.com), to $59.99 at big box outdoor retailers.    

Performance:  *** (3 stars of 5).  To be fair I have to say that I modified the Stealth Cam Battery Kit’s plug to fit my battery hog Moultrie D40 game camera.  During the non-hunting months I only check my cameras once very 30 days and during season I only check them every 2 weeks so I need the batteries to last.  The battery kit does help to extend the D40′s internal battery life.    However, given daily temperatures in the 30′s or less I can still only get 10 days of battery life between the internal and external batteries even when the battery kit is fitted with a solar panel.   

Chatter on forum sites indicates there may be a problem where the kit case fills with water.  Mine doesn’t leak, but I set one up for a buddy’s Moultrie D40 and his case does fill with water.  I couldn’t diagnose the problem so he drilled some holes in the bottom to fix it.  I’ve seen where Stealth will fix the problem under warranty, but it wasn’t worth the trouble of returning it for us.  

Manufacturer’s Customer Service:  Not used, not rated.    

Source:  Wal-Mart. 

General notes:  None.

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following: 

• JD Welding Arrow Spin Testing – A dv Gear Review
• A Note On dv’s Gear Reviews and Gear Provider Recommendations
• The Magnet Gun Caddy – A dv Gear Review
• A dv Gear Review – Moultrie D40 Game Camera
• A dv Gear Review – Scout Guard 550 Game Camera

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It was April fifth and my feet were frozen.  Mother Nature had smiled upon us during the last 4 days, but today she hit us with a sudden cold snap.  We were hunting turkeys during Kansas’ archery only season, No Bird Left Behind – A Turkey Tale.  In the darkness of the Double-Bull blind my buddy pulled out a Greenhead vacuum bottle and poured us both a cup of hot steaming coffee.  Aaahhh, as I tried to wrap all ten fingers around the little cup I contemplated that life truly was never so good.  Then it was back to watching for turkeys. 

After that hunt I decided that although I had a full-sized vacuum bottle at home, I needed a small 16-18 ounce bottle for the deer and turkey woods.  And, if my fortunes were down, to use at work also.  But which one?  Dad told me I could get one for $6 and my buddy said he paid more than $20.  I searched the reviews on big box outdoor store websites, but they varied so much they really weren’t much help.  One guy gave the cheap vacuum bottle a 5 star rating and the next rated it 1 star.  Who knew the truth?

So, despite Mrs. dustyvarmint’s sarcastic reminders of six months shopping for a $28 factory second sleeping bag and eighteen months comparison shopping for a $17.00 cooler, I decided a vacuum bottle test was in order.  Hopefully, this information will save you a little money and derision from your Mr. or Mrs. Hunter.

First, I had to collect the bottles.  These were the choices, all 16-18 ounces, left to right in the picture below:  Cabela’s Nissan-Thermos, $24.99; Greenhead Bullet Bottle from Cabela’s, $19.99; Cabela’s label, $12.99; Thermos from Gander Mountain (also available from Wal-Mart), $14.99; Quest from Dick’s, $5.99.

The thermos line up. 

Next, I had to decide how to test them.  So, I started brain storming ways to shoot them into plywood (sorry, a reference to some lame broadhead testing I once read about).  I decided I’d fill them with hot water of a specific temperature, let them sit for a specific period of time and then check the liquid’s temperature.  The three tests included inside for at least eight hours, outside for at least eight hours and in the refrigerator for the same amount of time.  After completing test one I decided to include my full-size Thermos brand bottle and a normal water pitcher for comparison purposes.

Testing and comparison items.

Test 1 – Inside ambient air temperature

The following table shows the results of placing the bottles on the counter over night from 8:05 p.m., temperature 69.0º, to 8:05 a.m., temperature 69.0º; a total of 12 hours.  All bottles were pre-warmed, as is my normal habit, for 10 minutes with 105.7º tap water then filled with 181.6º water from my coffee pot.  Thermos-Nissan was the clear winner followed closely by the regular Thermos and the Greenhead Bullet.  Last place goes to the Quest with the Cabela’s only slightly edging it out.

• Thermos – Nissan – 145.3
• Thermos                  – 141.5
• Greenhead Bullet – 137.3
• Cabela’s                    – 123.5
• Quest                         – 115.8
• Themos                    – not included
• Uninsulated water pitcher – not included

Test 2 – Outside air temperature

The next table shows the results of placing the bottles outside over night from 9:10 p.m., temperature 80.1º, to 7:52 a.m., temperature 74.9º; a total of 10 hours and 42 minutes.  Again, all bottles were pre-warmed for 10 minutes with 120º tap water then filled with 175.6º water from my coffee pot.  Thermos-Nissan is the clear winner followed closely by the regular Thermos and the Greenhead Bullet.  Last place goes to the Quest with the Cabela’s only slightly edging it out.

• Thermos – Nissan – 140.8
• Greenhead Bullet – 134.9
• Thermos                  – 134.5
• Cabela’s                    – 116.6
• Quest                         – 109.0
• Thermos (big)        – 126.0
• Uninsulated water pitcher – 43.6 

Test 3 – In the refridgerator

Finally, this last table shows the results of placing the bottles in a 39.6º refrigerator from 11:35 a.m. to 8:13 p.m.; a total of 7 hours and 38 minutes.  All bottles were pre-warmed for 10 minutes with 120º tap water then filled with 177.5º water.  The Thermos-Nissan is the clear winner followed closely by the Greenhead Bullet and the regular Thermos.  Last place goes to the Quest with the Cabela’s again only slightly edging it out.

• Thermos – Nissan – 145.6
• Greenhead Bullet – 138.1
• Thermos                  – 139.3
• Cabela’s                    – 122.5
• Quest                         – 120.1
• Thermos (big)        – 135.4
• Uninsulated water pitcher – 79.9  

Notes

There is one primary difference between the top three and the bottom two bottles.  The top three all have a one piece stopper with quick-pour feature – you pour the coffee by unscrewing the stopper just a few turns without removing it.  The bottom bottles have a push-button pour-through feature.  It seems as if this design does not retain heat as well. 

Performance Ranking

So, overall ranking based on performance is the Thermos-Nissan, Thermos, Greenhead Bullet, Cabela’s and Quest.  I chose to keep the Thermos-Nissan and return the others.  However, if I were to buy a bottle today knowing what I know now I would choose the regular Thermos bottle available at Gander Mountain or Wal-Mart.  It is definitely the overall best value.  If I absolutely had to have camouflage I’d go with the Greenhead Bullet.

Lexus declares the winners.

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following: 

• JD Welding Arrow Spin Testing – A dv Gear Review
• A Note On dv’s Gear Reviews and Gear Provider Recommendations
• The Magnet Gun Caddy – A dv Gear Review
• A dv Gear Review – Moultrie D40 Game Camera
• A dv Gear Review – Scout Guard 550 Game Camera

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I recently saw a web forum thread where the bowhunter professed frustration over his recent Wisconsin state land whitetail hunting experience due to equipment regulations.  Treestands on Wisconsin state lands must be removed each day and the use of screw-in steps is prohibited.  So, both a stand and some method for scaling the tree must be packed in and out.  I’ve also been on out-of-state hunts where I wanted a highly portable set-up for quickly adapting to deer movement or new scouting information.  I’m used to this way of hunting and now prefer it having used screw in steps only once in my 16 years of hunting from an elevated stand.  However, packing in a stand, steps and possibly a pack and extra clothing, for anything but a short distance, can leave a bowhunter tired, sweaty, and like our friend, frustrated.  Here are a few tips I have come up with over the years for both hang-on and climbing stands.  

Shoulder Straps – A decade-and-a-half ago you were lucky if your stand came with pack straps at all.  If it did they were usually only a couple of lengths of one-inch wide nylon strapping.  I don’t remember any aftermarket straps being available.  Times change.  Now some stands come with shoulder straps and there are aftermarket ones available.  I took a quick look at some outdoor retailers and found simple padded straps priced from $14-20.  

However, my favorite is the shoulder strap set from a military surplus MOLLE pack.  e-bay is a great place to find them for around $20 including shipping.  The price is comparable to commercially available straps, but I believe the MOLLE straps are infinitely superior.  Each side is individually adjustable for different body sizes and clothing layers, there are left/right load adjusters, 5 straps attach to the stand and a sternum strap is included.  Additionally, the straps contain left/right quick disconnects should your stand and pack be on fire or a bobcat attacks you.

The MOLLE system on a Lone Wolf Sit & Climb Stand and a Lone Wolf Alpha Assault.

Before discovering the MOLLE straps my favorite was the old military surplus ALICE LCII pack straps.  They come as a pair, one fitted left and one fitted right, each with an adjustment cam for use with different clothing layers, a quick-disconnect for easy load shedding (fire/bobcats…) and are fitted for right and left.  I think these are also better than the commercially available straps.  Typically they run in the $14-20 range, but I found a set the other day with the ALICE pack for $8.

ALICE straps on a Gorilla Scout stand.  Note the added sternum strap.

Waist Belt – Just like on a regular pack, a waist belt that carries the burden of the load on your waist/hips vice your shoulders is the coup-de-grace (or the cat’s meow, whatever…).  Anyway, I could never figure out how to adapt the ALICE waist belt to a stand and although I could attach the pack-frame with the waist belt I just didn’t like that set up.    However, the MOLLE waist belt easily attaches to most stands without problem.  I don’t even notice the weight of the stand on my back any more.  

Sternum Strap – Regardless of which shoulder straps you choose, a sternum strap across your chest prevents them from sliding off your shoulders.  The MOLLE straps come with one, after market ones are available for the ALICE straps or you can fashion one from two pieces of eight inch long by one-half inch wide nylon strapping and a nylon quick disconnect clip.  Thread one-half of the quick disconnect clip onto each piece of the strap and sew the strap ends together with heavy duty thread.  Then slide one-half of the completed chest strap onto each strap.  The best bet is to sew them in place, but that isn’t totally necessary.  If you use the ALICE shoulder straps there is a handy location for the chest straps right behind the adjustment cams. 

A MOLLE system installed and in use as viewed from the front when worn.  Note the sternum strap.

Stand Weight – When shopping for a stand you want to consider its total weight and capacity.  Choose a stand that you can carry for long distances, but also make sure it can carry you.  As a comparison, when I first started treestand hunting I used an all steel twenty-two pound stand.  Then I switched to an eleven pound all aluminum stand.  Quite a difference. 

I primarily use two stands, a Lone Wolf Alpha Assault coupled with four Lone Wolf Climbing Sticks, 21 pounds combined weight, and a Lone Wolf Sit and Climb, 20 pounds.  I loaded both of them up just as I would hunt with them, including extra cold weather clothing and small pack as pictured below, and found that they both weighed 30 pounds. 

The stands are loaded up and ready to hit the woods with small pack and extra clothes.  Note the climbing sticks on the Alpha Assault, right, and the bungy cords.

Silence! – None of us wants to pack a stand that sounds like a spare parts store hit by a tornado.  Isolate and fix any unwanted sounds coming from your stand.  The seat on my previous stand liked to bang against the platform with each step.  It was so loud it even scared me on those long, dark morning and evening walks.  I learned to flip the seat cushion over when packing it in and tie the platform to the support columns so there was no free movement when I was walking.   The cord stayed tied to the platform so I didn’t lose it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way when the stand is in use.  Both my Lone Wolf stands can make a little walking noise, but quiet down when a couple of bungy cords tighten everything up.

The seat is flipped over and tied to the platform to minimize carry noise.

 The cord tied to the platform doesn’t interfere with stand use.

Quiver – If you are a hunter who likes to use a detachable quiver you may want to consider purchasing an extra bracket and mounting it on your stand’s platform so your arrows are always ready.

Retrieval Rope – Have you ever tried to untangle your coiled bow retrieval rope in the dark?  Good luck.  Instead, wrap it around a small wire or thin wood frame.  Then simply reel it off.  Make sure you re-stow it after each use.  For that matter, do the same with tree steps, flashlights, etc.  The last thing you want to do when you get back to camp is go back through your gear.

Wrapping the retrieval rope around a frame keeps it untangled and ready to use.

Extra Clothing – If you hike in more than a couple hundred yards you are likely to be pretty sweaty by the time you arrive at your tree.  Consider wearing the bare essentials while hiking and strap the rest to your stand with some bungy cords. 

Footwear – In cold weather, consider a set of soft, insulated boot covers that can be carried in and put on while in your stand vice wearing heavy pac boots that leave you exhausted and your feet sweaty. 

Zippers – The little tabs on packs can be hard to find in the dark and even harder in the dark when your fingers are frozen or covered with gloves or mittens.  Using some cord, such as parachute cord, or some leather scraps, craft some two to three inch long lanyards and attach them to the zipper tabs on your pack.  These work well on trouser flies, jackets, bibs and overalls as well.

Tabs make it easier to find zippers in the dark and when it is cold.

Headlamp – A headlamp is a handy way to free up one hand from carrying a flashlight.  See my review of the Energizer 3 LED Headlight here. 

Fitness – One final note.  Before attempting to pack in all this stuff on opening day, engage in some sort of fitness plan over the summer.  Here is a link to one of mine, Get In Shape – Keep It Simple Bowhunter.

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following:  

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