I recently saw a web forum thread where the bowhunter professed frustration over his recent Wisconsin state land whitetail hunting experience due to equipment regulations. Treestands on Wisconsin state lands must be removed each day and the use of screw-in steps is prohibited. So, both a stand and some method for scaling the tree must be packed in and out. I’ve also been on out-of-state hunts where I wanted a highly portable set-up for quickly adapting to deer movement or new scouting information. I’m used to this way of hunting and now prefer it having used screw in steps only once in my 16 years of hunting from an elevated stand. However, packing in a stand, steps and possibly a pack and extra clothing, for anything but a short distance, can leave a bowhunter tired, sweaty, and like our friend, frustrated. Here are a few tips I have come up with over the years for both hang-on and climbing stands.
Shoulder Straps – A decade-and-a-half ago you were lucky if your stand came with pack straps at all. If it did they were usually only a couple of lengths of one-inch wide nylon strapping. I don’t remember any aftermarket straps being available. Times change. Now some stands come with shoulder straps and there are aftermarket ones available. I took a quick look at some outdoor retailers and found simple padded straps priced from $14-20.
However, my favorite is the shoulder strap set from a military surplus MOLLE pack. e-bay is a great place to find them for around $20 including shipping. The price is comparable to commercially available straps, but I believe the MOLLE straps are infinitely superior. Each side is individually adjustable for different body sizes and clothing layers, there are left/right load adjusters, 5 straps attach to the stand and a sternum strap is included. Additionally, the straps contain left/right quick disconnects should your stand and pack be on fire or a bobcat attacks you.
The MOLLE system on a Lone Wolf Sit & Climb Stand and a Lone Wolf Alpha Assault.
Before discovering the MOLLE straps my favorite was the old military surplus ALICE LCII pack straps. They come as a pair, one fitted left and one fitted right, each with an adjustment cam for use with different clothing layers, a quick-disconnect for easy load shedding (fire/bobcats…) and are fitted for right and left. I think these are also better than the commercially available straps. Typically they run in the $14-20 range, but I found a set the other day with the ALICE pack for $8.
ALICE straps on a Gorilla Scout stand. Note the added sternum strap.
Waist Belt – Just like on a regular pack, a waist belt that carries the burden of the load on your waist/hips vice your shoulders is the coup-de-grace (or the cat’s meow, whatever…). Anyway, I could never figure out how to adapt the ALICE waist belt to a stand and although I could attach the pack-frame with the waist belt I just didn’t like that set up. However, the MOLLE waist belt easily attaches to most stands without problem. I don’t even notice the weight of the stand on my back any more.
Sternum Strap – Regardless of which shoulder straps you choose, a sternum strap across your chest prevents them from sliding off your shoulders. The MOLLE straps come with one, after market ones are available for the ALICE straps or you can fashion one from two pieces of eight inch long by one-half inch wide nylon strapping and a nylon quick disconnect clip. Thread one-half of the quick disconnect clip onto each piece of the strap and sew the strap ends together with heavy duty thread. Then slide one-half of the completed chest strap onto each strap. The best bet is to sew them in place, but that isn’t totally necessary. If you use the ALICE shoulder straps there is a handy location for the chest straps right behind the adjustment cams.
A MOLLE system installed and in use as viewed from the front when worn. Note the sternum strap.
Stand Weight – When shopping for a stand you want to consider its total weight and capacity. Choose a stand that you can carry for long distances, but also make sure it can carry you. As a comparison, when I first started treestand hunting I used an all steel twenty-two pound stand. Then I switched to an eleven pound all aluminum stand. Quite a difference.
I primarily use two stands, a Lone Wolf Alpha Assault coupled with four Lone Wolf Climbing Sticks, 21 pounds combined weight, and a Lone Wolf Sit and Climb, 20 pounds. I loaded both of them up just as I would hunt with them, including extra cold weather clothing and small pack as pictured below, and found that they both weighed 30 pounds.
The stands are loaded up and ready to hit the woods with small pack and extra clothes. Note the climbing sticks on the Alpha Assault, right, and the bungy cords.
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Silence! – None of us wants to pack a stand that sounds like a spare parts store hit by a tornado. Isolate and fix any unwanted sounds coming from your stand. The seat on my previous stand liked to bang against the platform with each step. It was so loud it even scared me on those long, dark morning and evening walks. I learned to flip the seat cushion over when packing it in and tie the platform to the support columns so there was no free movement when I was walking. The cord stayed tied to the platform so I didn’t lose it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way when the stand is in use. Both my Lone Wolf stands can make a little walking noise, but quiet down when a couple of bungy cords tighten everything up.
The seat is flipped over and tied to the platform to minimize carry noise.
The cord tied to the platform doesn’t interfere with stand use.
Quiver – If you are a hunter who likes to use a detachable quiver you may want to consider purchasing an extra bracket and mounting it on your stand’s platform so your arrows are always ready.
Retrieval Rope – Have you ever tried to untangle your coiled bow retrieval rope in the dark? Good luck. Instead, wrap it around a small wire or thin wood frame. Then simply reel it off. Make sure you re-stow it after each use. For that matter, do the same with tree steps, flashlights, etc. The last thing you want to do when you get back to camp is go back through your gear.
Wrapping the retrieval rope around a frame keeps it untangled and ready to use.
Extra Clothing – If you hike in more than a couple hundred yards you are likely to be pretty sweaty by the time you arrive at your tree. Consider wearing the bare essentials while hiking and strap the rest to your stand with some bungy cords.
Footwear – In cold weather, consider a set of soft, insulated boot covers that can be carried in and put on while in your stand vice wearing heavy pac boots that leave you exhausted and your feet sweaty.
Zippers – The little tabs on packs can be hard to find in the dark and even harder in the dark when your fingers are frozen or covered with gloves or mittens. Using some cord, such as parachute cord, or some leather scraps, craft some two to three inch long lanyards and attach them to the zipper tabs on your pack. These work well on trouser flies, jackets, bibs and overalls as well.
Tabs make it easier to find zippers in the dark and when it is cold.
Headlamp – A headlamp is a handy way to free up one hand from carrying a flashlight. See my review of the Energizer 3 LED Headlight here.
Fitness – One final note. Before attempting to pack in all this stuff on opening day, engage in some sort of fitness plan over the summer. Here is a link to one of mine, Get In Shape – Keep It Simple Bowhunter.
happy hunting, dv
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