Game Camera Photo Contest – Winners Announced
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Here are the Winners for the Mostly Archery and Up North Journal Game Camera Photo Contest.

There were a lot of great entries and choosing a winner was not easy for Mikey or myself.  Thank you to all who participated.  I’ll be contacting the winners for shipping information.

First Place and winner of the custom dustyvarmint woodworks turkey call is Tony from Fort Worth, TX.

 

Second Place and winner of the Up North Journal donated broadheads is Kent from Ava, IL.

 

Third Place and winner of the turkey decoy is Dave from Rapid City, SD.

 

thanks again, dv

Short Draw Bow Kinetic Energy and Trajectory
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Short draw archers can have problems their longer draw brothers and sisters don’t have with speed, kinetic energy (KE) and trajectory.  In this post I discuss recent KE and trajectory results from two of my bows. 

Warning:  This post contains technical content.  If you notice any inaccuracies, please bring them to my attention. 

A bow set-up’s speed rating by itself doesn’t necessarily mean too much.  For instance you don’t see anyone touting speed ratings under 200 fps as that isn’t too impressive these days.  I have a 1994 Hoyt Spectra Fastflite with round wheels that flings aluminum arrows at a blinding 187 fps.  That bow has shot a cut-on-contact Magnus Stinger through a 132 pound feral boar so well that it took two hands and a little back and leg muscle to pull the arrow out of the ground on the other side.  Translating that speed and arrow weight into something usable, such as kinetic energy, allows us to compare our bow’s performance to some generally recommended standards.  Note:  There is some discussion out there regarding KE versus momentum.  I’m not going to touch on that here, but you may wish to check out Archery Report’s ongoing discussion of the subject.

  • Kinetic Energy Recommendations
    • <25 ft lbs = Small Game (rabbits, squirrels, etc.)
    • 25-41 ft lbs = Medium Game (deer, pronghorn, etc.)
    • 42-65 ft lbs = Large Game (elk, bear, feral hog, etc.)
    • >65 ft lbs = Dangerous Game (cape buffalo, grizzly, etc.)

Also, and in balance, there is the consideration of trajectory.  I say “in balance” as a bowhunter has the option of shooting hewn logs with a trajectory arc like that of a volleyball going over the net or screaming pencils with a comparatively flat trajectory.  The hewn logs will have greater KE (although in my calculations there is a point of diminishing returns) and the screaming pencils will have less.  Why does it matter?  It matters, because in the field we don’t always know the exact yardage to the critter.  The shot on that feral hog was about 12 yards.  That bow is not the one I’d want on a modern day mule deer hunt over open, western terrain.  Combining misjudged yardage with an extreme trajectory will likely result in a missed target.  Dave Holt gives an excellent visual description of this in his books Balanced Bowhunting and Balanced Bowhunting II.  Additionally, this article, Arrow Buyer Help – Speed and Kinetic Energy from Hunter’s Friend is a great resource.

KE and Trajectory Results

Using the same set-ups presented in Short Draw Bow Speeds and Technical Discussion here are the KE and Trajectory Results.

Note:  KE can be computed by the following formula, (Arrow Weight x (Speed x Speed))/450800.  For example ((376.8 grains x (274 fps x 274 fps))/450800 = 62.75 ft/lbs.  Also note that the first KE figures given below are initial KE calculated using this formula.  As the arrow slows terminal KE will be less.  The terminal KE and trajectory figures given below at the indicated yardages are calculated using Archer’s Advantage software

2009 Bowtech SWAT – 376.8 gr arrow

  • 26 5/8″ measured to AMO standard
  • 69.75 lbs (maxed out)
  • 14.6 gr on string (Fletcher TruPeep 8.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
  • 376.8 gr arrow
  • 274 fps (three arrow avg)
  • 62.75 foot pounds KE (initial, actual)
  • Calculated downrange KE and trajectory:
    • 20 yards – 8.9 inches drop, 58.1 ft/lbs KE
    • 30 yards – 20.3 inches drop, 55.9 ft/lbs KE
    • 40 yards – 36.6 inches drop, 53.9 ft/lbs KE
    • 50 yards – 58.1 inches drop, 51.9 ft/lbs KE

2009 Bowtech SWAT – 360.1 gr arrow

  • 26 5/8″ measured to AMO standard
  • 69.75 lbs (maxed out)
  • 14.6 gr on string (Fletcher TruPeep 8.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
  • 360.1 gr arrow
  • 279.3 fps (three arrow avg)
  • 62.31 foot pounds KE (initial, actual)
  • Calculated downrange KE and trajectory (Note that these calculated results seem suspect when compared to the above set up – a lighter arrow in this case should not equal greater KE, but I’m reporting the results as they were generated.):
    • 20 yards – 8.1 inches drop, 60.8 ft/lbs KE
    • 30 yards – 18.5 inches drop, 58.5 ft/lbs KE
    • 40 yards – 33.5 inches drop, 56.2 ft/lbs KE
    • 50 yards – 53.1 inches drop, 54.0 ft/lbs KE

2006 Reflex Highlander – 376.8 gr arrow

  • 26 1/2″ measured to AMO standard
  • 67.25 lbs (maxed out)
  • 69.1 gr on string (1/4″ G5 Meta-Peep 6.5 gr, SIMS Super String Leeches 56.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
  • 376.8 gr arrow
  • 259 fps (three arrow avg)
  • 56.07 foot pounds KE (initial, actual)
  • Calculated downrange KE and trajectory:
    • 20 yards – 9.7 inches drop, 53.2 ft/lbs KE
    • 30 yards – 22.2 inches drop, 51.2 ft/lbs KE
    • 40 yards – 40.1 inches drop, 49.3 ft/lbs KE
    • 50 yards – 63.6 inches drop, 47.4 ft/lbs KE

2006 Reflex Highlander – 360.1 gr arrow

  • 26 1/2″ measured to AMO standard
  • 67.25 lbs (maxed out)
  • 69.1 gr on string (1/4″ G5 Meta-Peep 6.5 gr, SIMS Super String Leeches 56.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
  • 360.1 gr arrow
  • 263.3 fps (three arrow avg)
  • 55.38 foot pounds KE (initial, actual)
  • Calculated downrange KE and trajectory:
    • 20 yards – 9.7 inches drop, 49.7 ft/lbs KE
    • 30 yards – 22.2 inches drop, 47.8 ft/lbs KE
    • 40 yards – 40.1 inches drop, 46.1 ft/lbs KE
    • 50 yards – 63.5 inches drop, 44.3 ft/lbs KE

More Technical Musings

For a later-to-be-announced 2010 adventure I’m trying to deliver 62-65 ft lbs with my set up based on the outfitter’s recommendation.  The new Bowtech SWAT puts me on the edge of that.  The Highlander is quite a bit short of my goal.  It’ll be my back up on this adventure.  My dilemma is whether or not I want to up the ante even more and switch to a reliable, economical solution; aluminum arrows.  I know there are a lot of good carbon/aluminum and aluminum/carbon options out there, but when I compare $50 per dozen, raw shaft, for aluminum to $100+ per dozen for carbon/aluminum or aluminum/carbon (raw shaft) the solution is obvious for me. 

So, putting Archer’s Advantage’s tools to use with a hypothetical set up in the Reflex Highlander, the potential with the lightest aluminum arrow with the proper spine, a 2412, weighing (computed vice actual) 400 grains would deliver 64.7 ft lbs initial KE with a downrange KE and trajectory as listed below.  This is another situation where the generated results are suspect and would have to proven.  For instance, when compared to the results above the arrow drop with this heavier arrow is less at 50 yards than the other two set-ups.   However, KE is significantly higher which is good.  A test arrow would have to be made, weighed and shot through the chrony and then that information fed into Archer’s Advantage to verify the results. 

  • 2412 Aluminum Arrow in the Reflex Highlander (calculated using Archer’s Advantage) 
    • 20 yards – 9.3 inches drop, 57.8 ft/lb KE
    • 30 yards – 21.4 inches drop, 54.6 ft/lb KE
    • 40 yards – 38.3 inche drop, 51.6 ft/lb KE
    • 50 yards – 62 inches drop, 48.7 ft/lb KE

With the SWAT just reaching the lower edge of the desired KE I will be using a full cut-on-contact broadhead, the 4-blade, 100-grain Magnus Stinger for this adventure.  If you have concerns about your delivered KE, regardless of quarry pursued, I recommend the same strategy.  I get a lot of people asking me why I shoot 67.5-70 lbs when, according to them, 50 or 60 lbs will get the job done.  Truth be known I’d shoot in the low 70′s if manufacturers made limbs in the 65-75 lb range.  Typically people who ask me this start out at 28.5 inches or more in draw length and are already exceeding the speed and KE delivered by my set-up even when they are shooting less draw weight.  In my opinion, and this is just my opinion, for short DL archers shooting the most draw weight one can safely and accurately handle is the best way to go.  This is one of the reasons I consistently hit the gym.  Safe and accurate are keys here – if an archer can’t draw his or her bow while sitting in a chair with both feet off the ground then he or she is shooting too much draw weight. 

I’d like to keep the flattest trajectory possible, but it is very important to set myself up with the best penetration possible also.  Note that the minimum difference in drop between any of the four set-ups from 20-30 yards is 10.4 inches on the SWAT’s 360.1 grain set-up.  If I aim at the center of a standard 8 inch kill zone any yardage estimation error greater than about 4 yards (one inch drop per yard) will drop the arrow more than the distance from the center of the kill-zone to a miss - 4 inches.  Due to this I try to mitigate yardage estimation errors by participating in 3D shoots without the aid of my range-finder.  I estimate the yardage, shoot and then range the target to see how close or far away my estimate was.  I also try to use that tactic in addition to shooting with a partner who is superior to me at judging distance so I have the opportunity to judge the range, discuss any “trouble spots” a particular target is posing (long, dark, brushy tunnel vs. open and sunny for instance) and learn from the experience.  Shooting with my friend Gary Martin who has taken the archery Super Slam (defined as harvesting each of North America’s 28, now 29, big game species) accomplishes this.

Recommended resources: 

happy hunting, dv

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Game Camera Photo Contest – Week 4 Entries
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Here are the Week Four entries for the Mostly Archery and Up North Journal Game Camera Photo Contest.

This brings our contest to a close.  The winners will be announced Wednesday, December 30th.  You can find the original contest announcement with prizes, rules and how you could have entered here.

Andrew of Oxford, AL sent in these two pictures of some very nice bucks trying to rattle up some hunters.  

Dave of Rapid City, SD sent in these pics of a jewelry wearing kitty-cat. 

 

This itchy buck pic was submitted by Kurt from Washington, PA.

Steve of Whitney Point, NY submitted this photo of “old floppy ears” checking out what that funny noise is.

“Bears at the Spa” was submitted by DJ of Kalispell, MT.

Contestants in the “Next Top Predator Contest” entered by DJ of Kalispell, MT.

What is that guy doing?  Submitted by DJ of Kalispell, MT.

Where’d he go?  Also submitted by DJ of Kalispell, MT.

Thank you to everyone who submitted pictures.  Best of luck to you all.

happy hunting, dv

Short Draw Bow Speeds and Technical Discussion
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It is hard to find reliable speeds for short draw archers.  In this post I discuss recent results from two of my bows and some technical aspects regarding them.  

Warning:  This post contains technical content.

I spent some time the other night recording arrow speeds for submission to Archery Report’s Bow Speed Database.  This was previously mentioned in Archery Resources.  It was important to be as careful and accurate as possible to allow the comparison of true apple-to-apples.  We’ve all seen numbers reported that there is no way possible to produce – like someone shooting twenty pounds less than I am with similar equipment reaching speeds that exceed those my bows produce.  Machismo (or straight up guessing) on the part of the reporting party may play a factor in there somewhere. 

The Results 

2009 Bowtech SWAT – 376.8 gr arrow 

  • 26 5/8″ measured to AMO standard
  • 69.75 lbs (maxed out)
  • 14.6 gr on string (Fletcher TruPeep 8.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
  • 376.8 gr arrow
  • 274 fps (three arrow avg) 

2009 Bowtech SWAT – 360.1 gr arrow 

  • 26 5/8″ measured to AMO standard
  • 69.75 lbs (maxed out)
  • 14.6 gr on string (Fletcher TruPeep 8.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
  • 360.1 gr arrow
  • 279.3 fps (three arrow avg) 

2006 Reflex Highlander – 376.8 gr arrow 

  • 26 1/2″ measured to AMO standard
  • 67.25 lbs (maxed out)
  • 69.1 gr on string (1/4″ G5 Meta-Peep 6.5 gr, SIMS Super String Leeches 56.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
  • 376.8 gr arrow
  • 259 fps (three arrow avg) 

2006 Reflex Highlander – 360.1 gr arrow 

  • 26 1/2″ measured to AMO standard
  • 67.25 lbs (maxed out)
  • 69.1 gr on string (1/4″ G5 Meta-Peep 6.5 gr, SIMS Super String Leeches 56.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
  • 360.1 gr arrow
  • 263.3 fps (three arrow avg) 

Satisfaction

Since I can remember when 242 fps (using the latest machined-riser bow, a sizable over-draw and the latest carbon-aluminum arrows) was exciting you can imagine my excitement in seeing 279.3 fps (one of the three arrows actually went 280) with my new Bowtech SWAT.  At my short 26.5″ draw length I never really thought I’d see 280 fps with normal hunting tackle in the mid-priced range (which is what I shoot – nothing fancy here) that I believe has both sufficient axle-to-axle (ATA) and brace-height (BH) for reliable in-the-field performance. 

Technical Musings

Two different arrows were shot through each bow; a 376.8 grain arrow and a 360.1 grain arrow.  The weight difference was 16.7 grains.  The difference in speed between the two arrows shot through the SWAT was 5.3 fps.  If I divide 16.7 grains by 5.3 fps we see that for each reduction of 3.15 grains there is a gain of 1 fps.  Likewise, the same math exercise with the Highlander shows a speed difference between the two arrows of 4.3 fps.  Again, if I divide 16.7 grains by 4.3 fps we see that for each reduction of 3.88 grains there is a gain of 1 fps.  In other words it appears the SWAT is more efficient; it takes less of a reduction (3.15 vs 3.88) in weight to obtain 1 fps gain in speed.  However, there is a difference of 2.5 pounds draw weight between the two bows. 

Something I wondered about while shopping for bows was, “Has technology really produced faster, improved bows or are the numbers we see simply marketing hype?”  Notice that there is a significant difference in the amount of weight on the strings between the two bows.  Weight on the string affects speed, noise and vibration just as a heavier arrow would.  Generally, the more weight propelled by the bow’s limbs the quieter and more vibration free the bow will be and the less weight the bow’s limbs propel the louder the bow and less vibration free the bow will be as energy unable to be absorbed by the arrow (due to less mass) results in the side effects of noise and vibration.  Interestingly (and satisfyingly), the newer technology SWAT is quieter and more vibration free than the older Highlander even with all the weight on the Highlander’s string and the greater draw weight of the SWAT.  This is a nod to better technology producing quieter, more vibration free bows at least.  

If I were to try to equalize the weight on the string by reducing the Highlander’s 69.1 grains to the SWAT’s 14.6 grains weight on string I’d have to remove 54.5 grains.  Since each reduction of 3.88 grains realized 1 fps in speed for the Highlander I’ll divide 54.5 grains by 3.88 grains.  The result is a potential 14.05 fps gain in speed.  If I add that 14.05 fps to the 259 fps achieved by the 376.8 grain arrow the result is 273.05 fps; almost exactly equal to the SWAT’s 274 fps results (and at lower poundage).  Similarly, if I add that 14.05 fps to the 263.3 fps achieved by the 360.1 grain arrow the result is 277.35 fps; just short of the SWAT’s 279.3 fps.  So, potentially, if I removed the 54.5 grains of extra weight off the Highlander’s string I might (italics) be able to achieve similar speeds with an older bow at less draw weight.  That is quite interesting.  

However, one rule that I try to follow (it isn’t easy) is that during hunting season if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it.  Due to some meddling last year I missed one deer during the late season and would have severely screwed up my trip to Texas, Outfitter Report – Hogs and Javelina in Texas and Boar Attack – Anatomy of a Hog Shot Gone Wrong, had I not checked my bow’s zero upon arrival.  So, I’m not likely to mess with the Highlander anytime in the near future.  I am convinced, however, that the noise level would significantly increase on the Highlander without the extra weight and the vibration absorbing String Leeches. 

Alright, so now that I’ve recorded the speeds, what do they mean?  Does any of this affect kinetic energy or trajectory?  I’ll save that for a future post.  So please come back.  You won’t want to miss it. 

happy hunting, dv

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Game Camera Photo Contest – Week 3 Entries
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Here are the Week Three entries for the Mostly Archery and Up North Journal Game Camera Photo Contest.

You can find the original contest announcement with prizes, rules and how to enter here.

This piebald doe pic was submitted by Brent from Remus, MI.

Brent also submitted this video clip of the same piebald – awesome!

Piebald Video (if you receive an error message at Photobucket click “Ignore”. 

Denny of Summerdale, AL submitted this cat photo.

 

These fine bucks as well as the next two photos were submitted by Greg of Rochester, NY.

Looks like this doe wants a piece of the licking branch.

“With my extraordinary ninja skills I can escape the infrared beam.”

Jeff submitted this photo of a doe with her udder full.

 

Matt of Ishpeming, MI titled this one, “Quick, hide, another trail camera.”

 

I think the camera might have had a few too many “D” cells…  Thanks to Shack from IA.

 

Steve from Cecil, MI provided the next three photos. 

Steve notes that the buck was hurt (see the neck) in this photo.

Here the wound looks like it has healed some.

The next four pictures were submitted by Tony from Fort Worth, TX.

 

The variety of wildlife at this one location is amazing.

And that doe thought she had her udder full – or- these little piggies went to the crockpot.

Nice buck.

Thanks to everyone for the great entries, dv

Archery Resources – Airline Travel, Scent Free Lip Gloss, Archery Report
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Over time I’ve stumbled on a few archery-related resources that are just too good not to pass along.

Airline Travel

At some point in your bowhunting pursuits you’ll likely be facing a commercial airline flight with your equipment.  In these days of fees on fees one has to plan ahead and be fully aware of the related expenses and repercussions.  Years ago on my first spring turkey hunt to Kansas I sent my bow ahead via UPS in a standard cardboard bow box and took my blind on the plane as checked luggage.  The bow arrived with the rest damaged and the blind bag was never the same after having been drug across the flight line time after time. 

This year I took my first trip to Texas, see Boar Attack – Anatomy of a Hog Shot Gone Wrong and Outfitter Report – Javelina and Hogs in Texas.  The airlines would have charged me $50 each way to check my bow.  I sent it ahead via FEDEX, round trip, for $40.  My cheap plastic case was damaged to the point where it can’t be used for that type of transit any more, but the bow was unharmed.  Additionally, due to weight restriction, the meat from my hog was donated to a Mexican orphanage while I brought home the frozen skulls, capes and meat from two javelinas in my checked luggage. 

Bowsite‘s Pat Lefemine is a well-traveled, much-experienced bowhunter.  In this article, 15 Tips For Bowhunters Who Travel, he gives us the latest straight scoop on airline travel for bowhunting.  I would add one more tip – look up the prospective airline’s baggage rules before booking.  If you have questions, call them for clarification.  Once you pick an airline print the baggage rules and take them with you to the airport.  If bowhunting travel is in your future check out Pat’s article. 

Scent Free Lip Gloss

If you don’t already know what I’m talking about you’re likely saying, “Whaaattttt?”  Did dustyvarmint get into the annual bottle of holiday Irish Cream early this year?  No.  Although I like to blog I simply don’t have the time to read a lot of blogs.  Scent Free Lip Gloss is an archery/hunting/outdoors blog I find the time to read.  Whatever the right “blogging stuff” is Emily has it; witty, humorous, insightful with great music, pictures and video.  I’ve finally added it to the blog roll (down to the right) and to the static DV’s Links Page.  Go check it out. 

Emily and Hubby with a great elk.

  

Archery Report

Somewhere between marketing hype and one-example-my-X-brand-set-up-is-best-anecdotes there lies some truth and fact.  I like the direction Archery Report is taking.  Check out this Fletching Review where Mike compares the performance of a number of usual and unusual fletching options as well as the Bow Speed Database where he is compiling actual speeds from user input.  I’m anxious to get numbers from my bows in there.  I’ve also added Archery Report to the blog roll and DV’s Links Page.

Mike of Archery Report with a fine pronghorn. 

 

happy hunting, dv

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Game Camera Photo Contest – Week 2 Entries
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Here are the Week Two entries for the Mostly Archery and Up North Journal Game Camera Photo Contest.

You can find the original contest announcement with prizes, rules and how to enter here.

Dave from Elk River, MN submitted these great wolf photos.

Dillon from Port Orange, FL sent in this great buck picture.

Greg in Rochester, NY sent in this great sequence of a buck eating an apple.

James from London, UK (Mostly Archery goes global, Yeah!) sent this picture of a fox from his garden.

This great buck was submitted by Jeff from NH.

Gender bending?  Thanks to Kent from Ava, IL.

Nice poody-tat.  Also thanks to Kent from Ava, IL.

Matt Block of the Up North Journal Field Staff (ineligible to win) shares these next four great photos.

  

 

 

Rick from Niceville, FL sent in this crazy buck photo.  He had one heck of a night!

 

These turkeys are courtesy of Rickey from Port Orange, FL.

These sparring bucks are also from Rickey in Port Orange, FL.

These antlerless deer pictures were submitted by Sherri from Port Orange, FL.

Thanks for all the great entries, dv

DIY – $25 Bow Press
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Still in nesting mode, see DIY Bow Wrist Sling, I head to the shop and create a DIY Bow Press for around $25. 

The recent purchase of a parallel limb bow left me without the ability to “press my own”.  My old traditional style press wouldn’t work and for the most part I don’t trust “pro” shops to mess with my bows so I was “up a bow string without a peep sight”.  Then, while surfing through Archery Talk’s DIY Forum I found AT user Race59′s plans for a $20 press that works on a somewhat linear fashion for both parallel and regular limb compound bows.  As presented here it likely will not work on beyond parallel limb bows nor will it allow you to change limbs although there are work-arounds for both discussed in the thread.  Race59 seems to be a fairly prolific press designer who likes to share – to our good fortune.  This is a very portable press easily tossed into the truck bed with your kitchen sink and other gear. 

A $25 bow press.

 

Materials

  • (1) pipe clamp, either 1/2″ or 3/4″
  • (1) one 48-60″ length of black pipe to match the size of pipe clamp purchased; 1/2″ or 3/4″
  • (1) piece of wood, preferably oak, maple, hickory or other tough species, 4″ wide x 14 1/4″ long x 1 1/2″ thick  
  • (1) 8″ piece of double-sided tape -or- heavy duty adhesive
  • (1) 8″ piece of indoor/outdoor carpet or similar cushioning material.
  • (4) #8 x 3/4″ wood screws 

The pipe clamps, commonly marketed under the Pony brand in your local home improvement store, are available for $11-13.  Many of the AT users who utilized 1/2″ pipe and clamps reported jamming problems not on the pressing cycle, but on the “relax” cycle.  I chose to use 3/4″ pipe and clamps since I had a stack of them out in the wood shop.  The pipe was available in shorter 60″ (5′) lengths for $5-11.  Note that for the construction described here one end MUST be threaded for the pipe clamp to attach.  It typically comes that way or home centers will do it for you at no cost.  As mentioned before, see the original AT thread for other options.  The wood, double-faced tape and carpet were lying around my shop. 

Assembly

Note that these instructions are for the 3/4″ pipe and clamps.  Adjust dimensions accordingly for 1/2″ pipe and clamps. 

Step 1) Mill the wood to final dimensions.  You want to end up with two blocks 3 1/2″ wide x 7″ long x 1 1/2″ thick.

The two milled blocks.

Step 2) Drill a 1 1/8″ hole centered 1 1/16″ from the bottom into each block for the pipes to pass through.  See the picture for the exact location.

Hole placement.

     

Step 3) Drill a 3/4″ hole centered 4 1/8″ from the bottom for the cam channel through each block.   Again, see the picture above for the exact location.

Step 4) Form the cam channel by cutting a slot between the top of the block and the hole drilled in Step 3.

Forming the cam channel.

Step 5) Cut a 1/4″ deep saw kerf into the face of each block 1″ from the top. 

Forming the bottom of the notch.

Step 6) At a 6-7 degree angle cut a saw kerf from the top of the block down to meet the kerf cut in Step 5.  This creates a notch for the bow’s limbs to rest in.

Forming the top of the notch.

Step 7) Apply the double-sided tape and indoor/outdoor carpeting to the notches made in step 6.

The double-sided tape and indoor/outdoor carpeting applied.

Step 8) Drill two 11/64″ (or similar-sized) holes in the faces of each of the pipe clamps – see photo below.

Holes were drilled in the clamps, pilot holes were drilled in the blocks and screws were installed.

   

 

Step 9) Transfer the holes from the pipe clamps onto the backs of the wooden blocks.  Drill 1/8″ pilot holes 1″ deep on the transferred marks.  Attach the blocks to the clamps with the wood screws being careful not to twist the heads off (as I did 5 times).

Step 10) Grease the screw end of the pipe around the wooden block and clamp – see picture below.  Many AT users reported filing and sanding the black pipe down to bare metal then waxing it to make the pressing action more smooth.  I’m short on attention span so I didn’t want to do this tedious task.

Grease the pipe clamp in the area marked.

   

Step 11) Build a base for your press – that isn’t covered here nor is it necessary, but a couple of “U” bolts and a tabletop or saw horse should work quite well. 

You should now have a viable, portable press.

Using Your Press

To use the press first back off the limb bolts 2-4 turns before pressing.  Then adjust the screw end all the way out so that the space between the two clamp faces is the largest.  Place the bow into the block’s notch on the screw end and adjust the levered end clamp until the opposite limb tip rests snugly into it.  Now begin tightening the screw until the bow is relaxed.  Also note that some bows have draw stops that may have to be removed in order to use this type of press.  Use a pencil to mark the stop location on the cam so that it may be returned easily. 

happy hunting, dv

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Game Camera Photo Contest – Week 1 Entries
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Here are the Week 1 entries for the Mostly Archery and Up North Journal Game Camera Photo Contest

You can find the original contest announcement with the prizes, rules and how to enter here.

Taylor from Park Hill, OK sent in this cool photo. 

Judy from Washington, DC, sent in this photo – since it contains a human it doesn’t count for the contest, but it is cool none-the-less.

 

Greg from Rochester, New York sent in the next three entries. 

 

Thanks to everyone for their entries, dv (more…)

Climbing Sticks – Gorilla Silver Back Predator vs. Lone Wolf
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Here’s a post I’m excited to bring you – a head to head comparison of the Gorilla Silver Back Predator vs. Lone Wolf climbing sticks.

Outdoors buddy Seth called the other day to tell me one of his 2 x 4 and cotton clothes line tree steps had broken on him while he was trying to ascend a very large oak tree that morning.  Keep in mind that the steps, plans for which were once included in the National Bowhunter Education Foundation Bowhunter Education Course, are probably a minimum of 16 years old from when I taught him to climb trees for bowhunting.  The following day I was perusing a local store for paracord to make a wrist sling, see DIY Wrist Sling for Your Bow, when I happened upon a set of three Gorilla Silver Back Predator climbing sticks for a price I couldn’t in good conscience pass up.

An old 2 x 4 and cotton clothes line tree step.

 

Once home I called Seth and offered them up.  Seth is a very good soul often taking me out bowfishing all spring and summer, giving me lots of scrap wood for various projects and loaning me his Primos Double Bull Dark Horse blind even though I have two blinds in the basement.  If he broke his neck climbing a tree who would do all these things?  Anyway, I asked for one thing – I wanted to set them up and compare them to my Lone Wolf sticks for you, Mostly Archery readers.  He agreed. 

Specifications from their respective websites: 

*Gorilla Silver Back Predator Sticks:

  • Lightweight aluminum construction
  • Extreme portability – each stick nests/locks to the other
  • Steps conveniently fold up out of the way
  • Cam buckle attachment strap
  • Weight:  3.5 pounds each
  • Rating:  250 pounds
  • Length:  32 inches
  • Step distance:  15 inches
  • Steps per stick:  3
  • Retail:  About $119.00

*Lone Wolf Climbing Sticks:

  • Stick Length:  32 inches
  • Distance between steps:  15 inches
  • Weight:  2.5 pounds per stick
  • Fits 4-22″ tree
  • Single tube design
  • Reversible steps
  • 350 pound rating
  • Retail:  About $129 

As you can see there are a lot of similarities between the two sticks; both are 32 inches long, both have reversible steps spaced 15 inches apart, both are nesting (although via different methods) and both use cam buckles for attachment (also via different methods).  However, there are some significant differences too; the Gorilla sticks weigh one pound more for a total of three extra pounds per set of three, the Gorilla sticks are rated at 250 pounds versus the Lone Wolf’s 350 pound rating which may be due to its composite design versus Lone Wolf’s single tube design and while Lone Wolf’s sticks will accommodate 4-22″ inch straight or crooked trees the Gorilla instructions indicate their product should be used on straight trees a minimum of 8″ in diameter.

Lone Wolf (left) and Gorilla Silver Back Predator (right) Climbing Sticks. 

 

When holding them in my hands, side-by-side, the Gorilla sticks seemed more “substantial”.  The stand-offs are longer and seem beefier, possibly cast versus machined, and the stick has a good overall feel to it.  The Lone Wolf stick seems slim and compact. 

We laid the sticks out side-by-side.  In the photo above you see the Lone Wolf on the left and the Gorilla on the right.  Note the versa-button on the Lone Wolf and the left/right ears on the Gorilla.  These are for attaching the cam straps.  The ears on the Gorilla sticks are open on both sides.  We found the cam straps had a tendency to come right off the ears while being carried around or up the tree.  I might duct tape or zip-tie the left ear closed to prevent this.  In years of use with the Lone Wolf sticks I have never had a cam strap slip off the versa button.

The Lone Wolf sticks nest by matching up the v-shaped stand-offs to the next stick down and matching the Allen screw heads from the top of the lower stick to holes in the back of the upper stick.  A strap and buckle on the bottom stick secures the three (or more) sticks together.  One problem with this system is that it isn’t always easy to get the sticks nested together and one must make sure the stick with the strap is on the bottom of the stack.  Once nested, though, they are quite stable and quiet.  The Gorilla sticks nest by matching keyholes on the top of the lower stick to posts on the back of the upper stick.  This mate-up was also not necessarily easy to accomplish and once accomplished was secure, but kind of “jiggly” as there was no other strap.  However, this allows them to be stacked in any order.  After a week’s worth of use Seth said the sticks, “…just come apart now.”  One or more of the cam straps could be wrapped around the three sticks to possibly remedy this.   I’m also curious to know if the slotted screw head on the post indicates it could be adjusted…

The hole in the back of the Lone Wolf stick and the Allen screw head on the front of the other stick (on the versa-button). 

The keyhole on the front of the Gorilla stick.  

The post on the back of the Gorilla stick.

 

Standard storage practice for the cam straps on the Lone Wolf sticks is to wrap them around the bottom stand off and then back up to the versa-button.  This works well.  I did this on the Gorilla sticks and it seemed to work well also.  A stack of three Gorilla sticks was substantially taller than a stack of three Lone Wolf sticks although I didn’t measure the difference.

A stack of three Gorilla sticks was substantially taller than the same number of Lone Wolf sticks.  Note the excess straps stowed along the bottom stand-offs on both sets.

 

We hung the sticks and functionally found no difference between the two.  Both reached 12 feet without any stretching or contorting.  The Gorilla’s ended up about 5-6 inches higher, but that was because I hung the bottom stick a little high and then Seth hung the top two sticks.  I felt the Gorillas were a little more stable, but that could have been because Seth set them up with his weight and my little carcass wasn’t even a factor for them once set.  One complaint I often hear about sticks with alternating steps is that the steps always end up on the wrong side.  I’ve never had much trouble with this, but I am right handed and when using my standard four sticks I always start with the bottom step to the left.  I think the important thing is finding a standard procedure and stick with it.

Three Lone Wolf climbing sticks mounted on an oak tree.

Three Gorilla Silver Back Predator climbing sticks mounted to the same oak tree.

Summary: 

Although a very serious Lone Wolf fan I was excited to see Gorilla come out with a competing product.  I was disillusioned, though, when I saw the price.  The way I looked at it was that for $10 more I could save three pounds and use the very proven Lone Wolf product.  Also, the Lone Wolf Alpha and Alpha Assault stands are made with matching spots for packing their brand sticks which is quite nice.  I’m not sure if Gorilla’s new HX series of stands has that feature.  Had I found the Gorilla sticks for the price I found these for Seth or for the current advertised sale price of $89.99 at Cabela’s I might be using them now instead.  I believe they are a quality, stable and safe alternative. 

I know, I know, you are saying, “I want to see a comparison of the Lone Wolf sticks to the Muddy sticks.”  I recently saw just such a comparison and I’ve asked the author to do a guest blog here on Mostly Archery.  He was busy hunting at the time and we are attempting to get back together. 

happy hunting, dv

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