The Best Valentine’s Day Ever – Winter Bowfishing
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 Posted by Jerry Long, February 22, 2010

I don’t always hear all that well, especially with background noise, but I’m sure I heard Seth say, “This will be the best Valentine’s Day ever,” as we pulled the sled through snow and ice towards our first winter bowfishing adventure. 

A Quest

Since posting Winter Bowfishing I’ve been on a quest to shoot fish when the ice and snow are hanging about.  With the closing of deer season Seth started working intel on Lake Links while I worked logistics and dates.  As Seth will testify; once I pick a date I stuck to it like a pit-bull on an intruder – come heck or high-water, literally.  Gathered intel indicated we had two regions to pick from; central Wisconsin along the river (a 3.5 hour drive) or eastern Wisconsin along the lake front (a 1.5 hour drive).  Seth wisely advised taking the shorter drive and saving the longer trip for Camp Pug’s annual ice-fishing outing which I’d be up for anyway.

A Trip Turned Scouting

When the chosen Saturday arrived 8-9 mph northeast winds drove me into the gym for my weekly marathon-training long-run.  That should have been a warning, but as Seth commented on my disposition, “You’re not stubborn, just dedicated.”  Thanks buddy.  He once again warned me the effects that northeast winds would have on the lake, but I was dedicated (stubborn) and chose to drag us both along.  With some detailed directions from a generous Lake Link’s user we headed towards the designated spot.  We were greeted with lots of ice and 18-24 inch waves that definitely did not look safe to wade in.  After some scouting from different directions we determined we’d come back again when the wind was more from the west and slower.

Success, Finally

With commitments through the following Saturday I decided to return the following Sunday pending wind conditions.  As all looked well we loaded up and headed out.  A mid-week snowstorm had laid down significant amounts of ice along the lake front – as much as 2-3 feet.  It was absolutely not safe to enter the water along most of the shore.  Once in a person could never ascend the 2-3 foot ice walls and the waves would batter you to exhaustion.  We looked south to see two people and a dog in the misty fog so we headed in that direction.  As we arrived they were no where to be seen yet there was no where for them to go.  Magic, it seemed, turned out to be a stairwell we’d not noticed before.

The foggy, wavy lakefront. 

We climbed the stairwell and followed a cat-walk to find two trout fisherman dunking lures beyond carp 7-10 yards away.  Ahh, the one piece of intel we didn’t have was to climb the stairs and follow the cat-walk.  With hearts a-pumping we returned to the truck to gather equipment. 

Equipment

Our intel indicated we needed waders, that we’d be in the water shooting fish (shooting at fish…).  Having no experience with waders I consulted Seth (a waterfowler and sometimes trout fisherman) who recommended neoprene boot footed waders for general use.  Of course everything was too large for my short legs, but I found a pair of size 8, neoprene, $99 waders on sale for $59 at Gander Mountain that would do.

My first winter carp with ice and snow in the background.

Other than that the normal equipment discussed in Anatomy of a Bowfishing Rig served us well.  One major difference was the need to transport the fish between 1/4 and 1/2 mile from point-of-harvest to the truck.  In the short term we decided on a plastic sled with our normal carp bucket inside.  For the future we may go to some sort of cart for this location. 

Bowfishing, WI style.

With an air temperature at less than 30 degrees our AMS retrievers would freeze up and so would our hands, but due to the warmer water temperatures in this area we could dunk them in to unfreeze or warm them up.  I ended up wearing a heavy winter glove on my bow hand, but I can’t stand to wear anything on my shooting hand.  The AMS safety slides would also freeze to our arrows in undesirable locations, but would usually break free when drawn across the rest.    

Strategy/Technique

Shot opportunities came in two kinds; from the top of elevated structures along the lakefront and in the waves.  The carp would frequent and congregate in certain areas visible from the elevated structures offering us 5-10 yard shots.  That is a 5-10 yard instinctive shot at a moving target, with 12-18 inch waves while considering refraction.  A challenging shot indeed.  My first shot managed to find the eye-ball on a nice one.  However, despite a head-shot normally being a good anchor, the fish pulled off when I tried to retrieve it up to my level.  Disappointing.  From then on the shooter would drag the fish into the shoreline while the other person would help to retrieve the fish from below – teamwork.  The other problem here is that carp aren’t totally dumb.  A couple of shots were all a shooter would get off before they stayed away for a little while.  That was a little boring.   

The other shot opportunities came while taking a walk through the waves.  We’d circle down the beach to the south, enter the water and stalk back to the north in about 2 1/2 to 3 feet of water.  Shooting like this has always been a challenge for me due to my short carcass and the need to keep the bow’s bottom limb out of the water at the shot.  We learned to face our right sides to the waves to keep from being battered.  Doing this we also learned to look in the trough or slack water following a wave to spot fish.  Shooting from and into the trough allowed me to keep the bottom limb out of the water.    

Danger

Ice, snow, freezing temperatures, water, waders and intent to enter the water.  If that doesn’t sound like a recipe for disaster I don’t know what would.  Seth’s better half and mother caught on pretty quickly, labeled me as crazy and wished Seth not to go.  Mrs. dustyvarmint caught on a little later, but we both promised to be safe (and made sure our insurance policies were up to date).  As with any adventure having a partner to look out for you, notifying people of your intended location and employing common-sense go a long way.  There is no chance I’d enter the water in many sections of beach in that stretch, but in this particular location I have no fear of the conditions.  

Good “In-Between Season” Adventure

Eventually the wind kicked up the waves too high and we grew tired of waiting for the carp to come back to the elevated locations.  In total we took five fish with the largest being an 11-pounder.  We lost three-to-five more trying to retrieve them.  It was a blast.  If you are looking for something to do with your bow between deer and turkey season keep an eye out for an opportunity like winter bowfishing.  We had a great time, plan to go back and had, “the best Valentine’s Day ever.”

Seth poses with the results of our first winter bowfishing adventure. 

happy hunting, dv

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A dv Gear Review – Master Lock Python Cables
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 Posted by Jerry Long

This week I take a look at the Master Lock Python Cables. 

See the general note about dv’s Gear Reviews.

ProductMaster Lock Python Cables

The 5/16 inch camouflage Master Lock Python Cable.

Overall Rating***+ (3.5 stars of 5)

Specifications (from Master Lock website):

  • -Cut resistant 6 foot x 5/16 inch diameter vinyl coated cable, camouflage finish, part number 8418KADCAMO-TMB

            -and-

  • -Cut resistant 6 foot x 3/16 inch diameter vinyl coated cable, black finish, part number 8417D
  • -Durable ABS bumpers
  • -Pick resistant reliable pin tumbler locking mechanism
  • -Easy to use Velcro strap holds excess cable in place

Cost:  *** (3 stars of 5).  Typically $14-20 for the 5/16″ cable and $6-10 for the 3/16″ cable.    

Performance:  **** (4 stars of 5).  The advantage of the Python Cables over chain or non-adjustable cables is that they cinch the item being locked up closely to the object they are being locked to, a tree for example.  This makes it harder to wrest the item away or tamper with it.  I bought the 5/16″ cables for use with the security boxes on game cameras and the 3/16″ cables for use on external batteries.  All four of the Pythons have been in the field for over a year and have been 100% reliable.  Those from Whitetail Supply are keyed alike which is very handy as opposed to those I purchased off-the-shelf from Menards.  The Velcro straps aren’t very helpful, easily sliding off and getting lost, but are of little consequence.

The 5/16 inch diameter Master Lock Python Cable secures a Scoutguard 550 camera in security box to the tree.

Manufacturer’s Customer Service:  Not used, not rated.   

SourcesWhitetail Supply (unsure if they are still in business) Menard’s for the 3/16″.

General notes:  The HCO Scoutguard series of cameras, see dv’s Mostly Archery review here, are often marketed with Python Cables as they have a cable channel built in.  However, this combination is easily defeated by simply working the game camera up the tree’s natural taper until it is loose enough to pull the camera out.  I recommend the use of a security box.  See Hazard’s to Game Cameras for a simple, no-weld, low-cost version.

happy hunting, dv

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Forschner Knives – Buy Now, Thank Me Later
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What product would you tell your friends to buy now and thank you later?  My answer is, emphatically, Forschner knives from Victorinox.

The Forschner line is characterized by good steel that holds a great edge, tough handles and excellent utility.  Mrs. dustyvarmint and I own five now and have a few more on our wish lists. 

Field Dressing and More

Forschner pare knives.

From turkeys to whitetails, and other critters both large and small, the little four-inch Forschner pare knife handles the majority of my field dressing needs.  Granted, this is not your typical huntin’ knife; it isn’t camouflaged, there’s no machismo – its straight-up, top-notch, functional utility.  I own two complete Buck Selectors with a variety of blades and custom knives, yet the Forschner pare is my field knife of choice.  Ohhhhh, to have had one to five of them back when I worked in a fur-buying and skinning shop…  Rob Kiebler at Fair Chase, Ltd, a Texas whitetail, feral hog and javelina outfitter, carries one of those zippered bank deposit pouches full of them to handle all dressing, skinning and pre-taxidermy work.

A web sheath, a blade cover and the knife’s original package.

At $4-6 each and weighing only 0.75 ounces the knives’ blades are thin, well-shaped, easily sharpened, semi-flexible and work well for skinning and light butchering.  The only draw back is the lack of a sheath, but there are several options to overcome that.  Small web sheaths work well, there are after-market blade covers available and a person could even whip up a leather sheath without too much effort.  I thought I lost my black-handled one last year in the snow and almost cried.  Turns out it was in my bib pocket the whole time (good thing the tears were frozen in).  For me the pares are equally at home in the woods, in camp and in the kitchen.             

Butchering

The five-inch, semi-curved, semi-flexible boning knife picks up where the four-inch pare leaves off.  This is what I use to cut out loins, quarter critters and break down primal cuts.  Again, excellent steel that holds an edge.      

The Forschner five-inch, semi-curved, semi-flexible boning knife with blade cover.

In the Kitchen

The eight-inch chef’s knife delivers in the kitchen.  Whether working over some onions, thinly cutting some semi-frozen venison rump for jerky or portioning my favorite venison breakfast sausage this knife has what it takes.  Again, the key is good steel that holds an edge.

The Forschner eight-inch chef’s knife with magnetic blade cover.

The whole Forschner line is economically priced, though not as economically as the pares.  If you are looking for field, butchering or kitchen knives check out the Forschner line.  Buy ‘em now, thank me later.

happy hunting, dv

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A Clothing “System” For Cold Weather Bowhunting
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I made a whole lot less money when I started bowhunting and I’ve always been just plain cheap.  Back then there was little organization to my cold weather bowhunting clothing.  Whatever I had in the house left over from my pre-adult hunting days was drafted into service including cotton long underwear, 1/2″ thick cotton/wool socks with the flexibility of rawhide and the ugliest pull-over polar fleece hoodie (not camouflaged) you’ve ever seen.  I had one camouflage top, a thin cotton, XL or XXL turkey hunting shirt/jacket with elastic shotgun loops in the left front flap pocket that just went over everything.  I’d put everything on, drive to the hunting area with limited mobility, waddle to my favorite tree and put up my stand the best I could like some kind of camo Michelin Man.  I don’t remember killing anything in that get up, but I sure remember good bowhuntin’ times, cold or no.

Dressed for success, Wisconsin winter style.

As I’ve gained a few gray hairs and lost many more I’m a little less tolerant of the cold.  I’m also a little more dedicated and possess the mental fortitude (that comes with age?) necessary to stay on stand longer.  Over the past three-to-five years or so I’ve collected and experimented with clothing and equipment that’ll allow me to do just that in sub-zero temperatures.  A very old article by Bowsite’s Pat Lefemine is the basis of this system.  An inquiry to locate the article for credit and reference went unanswered.  Additionally, ideas came from Bowsite users and from my own hunting partners.  You’ll see through-out that there is no adherence to particular, heavily-marketed, brand-named clothing and gear – I buy a combination of what fits, what is on sale and what I believe will do the job.  While specific brands and pieces are mentioned so that readers can have an example of the garments, this is a concept not an advertisement or endorsement.    

Testing the System

It’s a tradition in our deer camp to hunt closing weekend – the first weekend in January in central Wisconsin.  It can be cooolllldddd….  Upon returning to camp one morning this year it was still -6 degrees F outside.  The guys said it was -14 degrees F when I left for my stand.  I’d not gotten cold on stand and assumed it was in the mid-20′s.  I just didn’t feel like sitting in the tree any longer.     

Chemical Warmers

Chemical warmers sold under many brand names are a key component of this system.  Before leaving the cabin I’ll have already opened them so they’re ready for application by the time I reach my tree.  They won’t be needed until then.  With my toes being a major weak spot I’ll use a pair of toe-warmers in my boots.  I used to use hand-warmers for this application until my hunting partners proved to me that the toe-warmers actually work better in the low-oxygen application.  One to two (depending on just how cold it is) hand-warmers go into my hand-muff and then either one large adhesive warmer or one hand-warmer applied with duct tape will be applied to my kidneys.  

The Base Layer

First is a set of odor-inhibiting, moisture-wicking underwear.  Those pictured are Champion C9′s from Target.  Next, my feet get sprayed with scent-free antiperspirant such as Sure and Cabela’s Thermax sock liners go on.  Over the socks and underwear go a compression-fit, moisture-wicking, odor-inhibiting layer of thermal underwear.  These have a “nap” inside and are marketed by some companies as “cold”.  Those garments without a “nap” make me feel cool and clammy so I prefer the nap.  Pictured is a Champion C9 mock top (I really like the mock tops) while the bottoms are no-names from Cabela’s.

The base layer. 

Sock liners and wool socks.

 

The Second Layer

Heavier, but not crazy heavy, wool socks go on next.  Then a heavier layer of mid-to-heavy weight long underwear.  Traditionally I’ve used military surplus and Medalist brand polypropylene for this layer.  However, both are a little on the stiff side and don’t always play well with the first layer.  So, I’m currently experimenting with the ASAT Elite Extreme zip-top and the Lava-Wool bottoms pictured below.  The ASAT top is smoooooth and comfy inside, but has really pilled up after only a short amount of use.  It performed well on my 2009 Dog-Sledding trip.  Also, the handwarmer pouch on the front drives me crazy.  I’m considering cutting it off. 

The ASAT Elite Extreme zip top and Lavawool bottoms. 

 

The Third Layer

The second long underwear layer is followed by wind-proof polar-fleece trousers.  I have two pairs; one Cabela’s Legacy Fleece with Windshear and one Cabela’s Windshear Fleece, pictured below.  Both work great although pocket design/execution is poor on either.  Red Ball pack boots handed down from my father provide the last layer on the feet.  Depending on just how cold it is a Cabela’s wind-proof, camouflage, polar fleece hat; very light Manzella fleece bowhunter gloves and a Liberty camouflage, cotton sweatshirt (I haven’t found a synthetic version that fits my scrawny carcass yet) may go on for transiting to the stand.  Everything else is in my pack or cargo pockets.  This prevents me from sweating up my clothing – which I want to avoid for scent-control and for staying warm on stand.

Cotton sweatshirt and windproof fleece pants.

Hand-me-down pack boots (those kooky turkeys…).

The Final Layers

When I put my final layers on depends on whether I’m using a climbing stand, permanent stand or affixing a hang-on stand.  For climbing stands and permanent stands I’ll put all my clothes on at the base of the tree and climb up.  Neither method is physically taxing enough to work up a sweat.  For affixing a hang-on stand I’ll put up the stand, pull up my pack with clothing and then get dressed.  Either way, now is the time at which the chemical warmers go in my boots, on the small of my back and in my hand-muff. 

This final layer consists of the cotton sweatshirt if I haven’t already put it on, a pair of Bass Pro Shop Mountain Stalker Elite insulated bibs, a light fleece jacket (optional, depending on just how cold it is), a Cabela’s 650 Goose Down vest (a critical component), a safety harness and then a Cabela’s Outfitter’s Wooltimate Windshear jacket.  While the safety harness doesn’t have anything to do with staying warm a lesson learned from this year is that it is far more convenient under one layer of clothing than on the outside.  When worn on the outside it allowed my rangefinder to clank on a buckle and prevented me from using hand-warmer pockets on my jacket.

Bibs.

Down vest and optional light polar fleece jacket.

Odds and Ends

Once settled into my tree a Cabela’s wind-proof neck-gaiter goes on along with a Bass Pro Shop’s Enduraskin camouflage balaclava, a cheap, no-name fleece beanie, the Cabela’s polar fleece hat and the hand-muff.  The  Enduraskin balaclava is one of my favorite items.  I’m very, very particular about my anchor point.  The BPS balaclava is thin enough that I can still feel my jaw-line against my hand, but it has enough wind-breaking, moisture-wicking, insulating and odor-resistant properties that it is all the warmth on need on what would normally be exposed skin.  Keeping that anchor point in mind, I don’t wear a glove on my right (release) hand while in the stand.  It stays in my hand-muff with one or two chemical warmers and my left hand that does have a glove on – the bow’s riser can be cooolllllldddd.   I’ve also cut and inserted an extra piece of thick polar fleece material to take up dead air space in my hand-muff.

Final jacket layer, neck gaiter, polar fleece cap, polar fleece beenie, balaclava, light gloves and hand-muff (with extra polar fleece).

 

So that’s it, my pot-luck method of keeping warm on stand in cold temperatures.  I’m warm, it’s packable, it allows me to stay on stand and I can shoot from it.  

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