Bow Stakes – A “Pointless” Tip
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 By Jerry Long, April 11, 2010  

This quick tip will save you a hole in the hand, your blind or pack.

Holding a bow on your lap in a blind for long periods of time can get old.  I’m not fond of attaching a kickstand to my bow nor do I want to pay for or carry the bow holder that attaches to the blind ribs.  So, until something of better value, function and weight comes along I will continue to use the bow stake pictured below for all my blind hunting.  One problem, though, is the tendency of its pointy end to poke me in the hand or put a hole in my blind or carrying bag/pack.  Although never serious, yet, I’ve bled a couple of times due to this contraption. 

A bow stake holds up my bow on a recent hunt.

That hazardous, pointy end.

Here’s a quick, easy tip for preventing damage to you and your gear.  Check your couches, car seats and junk drawers for an ink pen with a cap like that pictured below.  This one was stealthily removed from Mrs. dustyvarmint’s car (for the greater good of bowhunting).  Place the cap on the end of the stake and screw it on.  The threads will engage.  Now the stake is harmless – give it a victorious glare.  When in your blind remove the cap and put it in your pocket.  When packing up put it back on the stake.  I’ve actually used the stake with the cap in place by accident (in the dark) with decent results.

The pointy end covered.

happy hunting, dv 

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Deer & Turkey Classic Review
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 By Jerry Long, April 19, 2010   

Follow along with me on an after-action virtual visit to the Madison, WI Deer and Turkey Classic held 9, 10 and 11 April, 2010.

As a general rule I try to stay away outdoor expositions such as the Deer and Turkey Classic for a variety of reasons.  First, they conflict with the fine balance between outdoors time and family time and in my case/opinion are really neither.  Second, without an extremely close grip on the wallet they can vie for dollars that could be spent on actual outdoors adventures.  Even when not tempted by such events I often need to remind myself that my money should be spent on hunting and not on (the latest nifty) hunting equipment.  The last time I attended one was 1993 or 1994. 

However, I had one particular need that was best served by attending so I asked outdoors buddy Seth to join me and up we headed on Sunday morning.  After cursing Tom Tom for taking me way southwest to get northwest (I should have been suspicious when it said there were gravel roads involved – huh?? – this ain’t Kansas) and paying our $10 entrance fees (after $2 coupon) Seth Seth got me oriented towards the PSE Archery booth.  That’s where our expo adventure started.

PSE Archery – I shot the Axe 7 in a fifty pound target bow, the Axe 6 in fifty-five pounds and the Vendetta XL in fifty-five pounds.  No thoughts yet on the line up – not enough weight to judge draw cycle or after shot performance.  All three bows naturally rolled forward after the shot which was nice.  One thing I’ll say is that, whether calling PSE directly or talking to representatives in person, everyone is very nice.

The PSE Axe 7.

Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources – Seth reminded me my fishing license expired at the end of March.  Twenty dollars to the nice lady and I was good to whack and stack some more fishies.

Wisconsin Bow Hunters – After four to five years of communicating via archery forums and e-mails I finally met my WBH District Representative who does so much to help preserve our bowhunting heritage here in Wisconsin.

Safari Room Taxidermy – I’ve chosen Safari Room Taxidermy to mount the gemsbok trophy I’m hoping to bring back from South Africa – here’s a link to the dustyvarmint African Archery Safari 2010 article page.  They were just as pleasant and helpful in person as on the phone and their sample work was outstanding.

A beautiful gemsbok.

Byron Ferguson – I’ve always regretted not buying long bow trick shot Byron Ferguson’s book the last time I saw him at a Duck’s Unlimited Outdoor Festival in Virginia.  This time I asked him to sign the copy of Become The Arrow I bought.  That’s another $10 down.

Become The Arrow by Byron Ferguson.

 

Greg Miller - Being that I’m a nearly entirely self-taught (which isn’t saying much) whitetail hunter Wisconsin native Greg Miller is an author I’ve long turned to for technique.  I’d waited years to have him sign my copy of Proven Whitetail Tactics.  He indicated it is now out of print and recently a signed copy in pristine condition went for over $400 on e-Bay.  Mine gets read too much to be in pristine condition, but I’m thinking it is going in my fire safe along with the signed copy of Greg’s Aggressive Whitetail Hunting when I’m not reading them.

KME Sharpeners – This excellent little device makes putting a razor edge on the smallest little replaceable blades like those in my Wasp JakHammers or normal-sized heads like Slick Tricks or Magnus Stingers a cinch.  Although I don’t have any problems utilizing mine, the demonstrated technique looked infallible and I learned about a final polishing technique utilizing corrugated fiberboard.

The KME broadhead sharpener. 

Knife booths – One anonymous knife vendor yielded another ceramic rod steel for $3, see How To – Use a Sharpening Steel.  Another had an excellent selection of Victorinox-Forschner knives; see Forschner Knives – Buy Now, Thank Me Later; but not the 8-inch chef’s knife I was looking for. 

A ceramic steel.

Dakota Hunting Trips – I stopped to see Chris at Dakota Hunting Trips who I used as the outfitter on my 2006 pronghorn quest.  Two things I’ll always remember about Chris.  One, he stuck with me through three embarrassing 32-36 yard misses and eventually led me to success at 28 yards.  Second, when pulling up to an abandoned farmstead for some post-pronghorn-hunt-bunny-whacking he said, “I hope you don’t mind lots of blood and screaming.”  I didn’t and I don’t – I nailed a cottontail in the shoulder with the first shot at 32 yards – go figure.

Chris poses with my lucky-to-have pronghorn.

 

Adaptive Sportsmen Incorporated – I always like to say hello to ASI president John Mitchell.  The guy is an inspiration to me.  What can be better than an organization that allows able-bodied persons the privilege of helping physically challenged hunters get into the field?  See a video from the 2009 ASI turkey hunt here.

I pose with dedicated whitetail hunter Heather during the 2008 season.

Muddy Treestands – In the top ten of questions on bowhunting forums is, “What about Muddy Treestands and Sticks?”  I learned about improvements to their 2010 line and inquired about obtaining a set of sticks for a review for you, the reader.  I’ll follow that lead and see where it takes me.

Rhino Blinds – An anonymous vendor had Rhino blinds in stock.  I’ve been seeing good discussion regarding the products and the company on archery forums.  The blind seems well-constructed, reinforced in all the right places and has the right features.  At $220 it has my attention.

Camp Wild Girls – I had the pleasure of meeting fellow Skinny Moose blogger and hunter Terri Lee Pocernich of Camp Wild Girls.  

Among other odds and ends that was about it.  Total monetary cost was $43 not including travel, Kwik Trip donuts and a lunch snack.  Total time including travel was eight hours during which a few I should have been shooting my bow instead.  Overall I had a good time.  My jury is still out on whether it is worth it to attend.

happy hunting, dv 

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Judging An NWTF Turkey Calling Contest
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 By Jerry Long, April 14, 2010  

Tune in to the Up North Journal where we discuss my participation as a judge in a recent National Wild Turkey Federation sanctioned turkey calling contest. 

I recently had the privilege of participating as a judge in a NWTF sanctioned turkey calling contest. As I told my Regional Director, “It was an awesome experience.”  In Episode 155, available for download directly from the site or via iTunes, of the Up North Journal podcast Mike interviews me about how it was conducted and shares some interviews from participants. 

happy hunting, dv

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How To – Use A Sharpening Steel
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 By Jerry Long, April 12, 2010   

 

This week I discuss various types of sharpening steels and a method I use to maintain my knives with them. 

I was down at West Allis Bowmen working in the kitchen (my favorite work-hour generator) awhile back and needed a sharp knife.  While I grabbed out the chef knife and a sharpening steel and ran through an edge straightening sequence the kitchen chairman said, “I never did know how to use one of those things.”  Honestly, since I’ve been using a steel of some sort since I was fifteen and working in a fur-skinning shop, I’d never given it much thought.  I don’t know of any other quicker, more handy, way of refreshing a knife’s edge while in the midst of a cutting evolution than the sharpening steel.

I have ceramic rod steels, hardened steel steels of varying quality and a couple of diamond steels of varying quality.  By far my absolute favorite is the ceramic rod versions that cost one-to-three dollars at gun/outdoor shows.  Next is the higher quality steel version made by Old Hickory.  The cheaper steel one that came with a Chicago knife set gets some use in the kitchen also.  My least favorite are the small diamond steels.  Actually, they might be true sharpeners more so than steels as they are far too rough in my opinion.  In truth both the ceramic rods and the diamond steels probably provide some measure of sharpening as well as straightening.    

From top to bottom; two steel sharpening steels, two ceramic rod steels and two diamond steels.

What It Does

I think it helps to think of a sharpening steel as more of an edge maintenance tool rather than a sharpener.  A cutting edge gets distorted in use.  Kind of like it is doing the “wave” – some portions of the blade’s edge are bent one direction while other portions are bent another.  This non-linear edge doesn’t track well and doesn’t cut well.  A steel straightens the tool’s cutting edge aligning it along its length.  This allows it to cut with greater ease.  There has to be a decent edge on the knife to start with in order for the steel to do its job.  A steel isn’t going to do much good on the knife we just used to strip sheathing off copper wire or that has been rusting under the truck seat since that last road-kill possum we skinned. 

The Technique

For years I muddled through using a steel by doing a little on one side and a little on the other until it either had an effect or I decided I had to break out a stone.  Then I saw a cooking show where the host had a real technique. 

First, grab the knife with the blade towards you in your primary hand.  Grab the steel in your other hand with the tip point away from you.  See the picture in step two, below.

Second, establish your angle.  Twenty degrees is about right.  What is twenty degrees?  Here is close enough – look at a clock.  Draw an imaginary line from the center to the “3″.  Now draw another imaginary line from the center to the “2″.  The angle formed by these two lines is thirty degrees (360 divided by 12), but by simply reducing it a little you’ll get close enough.  That’s the angle for the top of your stroke.  Now, imagine that same angle between the “3″ & “4″.  That’s the angle for the bottom of your stroke.

The top stroke with a Victorinox-Forschner chef’s knife.

The top stroke with a Victorinox-Forschner pare knife.

Third, while maintaining the angle, take five slow “slices” off the steel on top and five slow “slices” off the steel on the bottom.  Now take four slow slices off the top and four slow slices off the bottom.  Now three on each side, now two, now one.   Don’t try to emulate the crazy lightening speed of chefs you see on TV and movies (yet grasshopper).  Take it slow and easy.  Large blades require more coordination as a long stroke is required in a short distance.  Little blades require a little finesse.

The bottom stroke with the Victorinox-Forschner chef knife.

The bottom stroke with a King Custom knife.

 

Your blade’s edge should be straight now and should feel sharper.  If it doesn’t work the first time try it once more.  After that it’s probably a sign you need a stone and not a steel.  If the blade is in better condition to start you may only want to do three strokes per side and work your way down. 

This process works for me.  I have knives in the kitchen that receive nearly daily use that haven’t been truly sharpened in 2-3 years.  The steel (and proper usage/care) is all the maintenance they need to slice tomatoes without the latest “Gimso 2000″ laser edged knife.

happy hunting, dv 

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dustyvarmint’s Taco Seasoning
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 By Jerry Long, April 5, 2010   

This week I share my favorite taco seasoning recipe.

For a small-carcassed dude I can put the smack-down on some tacos so the majority of my venison ends up as seasoned meat for this tasty staple.  Since I despise dehydrated minced onion and dehydrated minced garlic this recipe is well-suited since I control what goes in it.  And, it’s the base for at least two other recipes that’ll come up in the future.

 

dustyvarmint’s Taco Seasoning

  • 1 T flour
  • 1 t chili powder
  • 1 t paprika
  • ¾ t salt
  • ¾ t onion powder
  • ½ t cumin
  • ¼ t cayenne pepper (optional)
  • ¼ t garlic powder
  • ¼ t sugar
  • 1/8 t ground oregano
  • 1 lb ground meat of choice
  • 2/3 c water or beef or chicken bouillon

1.  Combine all ingredients except meat and liquid.  Set aside.

2.  Brown meat.  Drain or don’t drain depending on choice of meat and personal taste.

3.  Add seasonings and liquid to meat combining well.

4.  Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.

5.  Make some FAT tacos – I don’t have to tell you how to do that.

happy hunting, dv 

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DIY – Solar Lighted Stabilizer
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 By Jerry Long, April 1, 2010    

Ever run out of batteries or forget your flashlight, but still needed to find your way to or from your stand?

Last season I was leaving the truck and realized I’d forgotten my headlamp at camp.  Then my backup flashlight’s batteries were dead.  That was the slowest walk, ever, to my stand.  I decided to do something about it.

Parts

I went to the store and gathered some parts:

(1) solar landscape light

(1) 1 ¼ inch ¼ x 24 hex headed bolt

(4) ¼ inch washers

(2) ¼ x 24 nuts

(1) marine epoxy

Assembly

Here’s the steps:

1)  Remove the landscaping stake and decide how long you want your stabilizer to be.  I liked this one’s eight inch length.

 

2)  Configure the bolt, nuts and washers as shown in the picture.

 

3)  Grind the washers to fit the inside of the solar light’s tube.

 

4)  Epoxy the bolt configuration in place and allow to dry.

An old stabilizer extension is screwed on the stud for easy installation into the light’s tube.

The stabilizer can charge while I’m on stand all day and then I can walk out with its light.  A small piece of duct tape placed over the sensor will save the battery power all night and allow it to be ready for walking in to my stand the next day.  It functions quite well as a stabilizer also.  I’m considering running a 3-4 foot piece of fiber from the base of the stabilizer to my sight pins also.  Here are some pictures of the final product. 

The final product.

In low light.

In the dark.

 

happy april fool’s day, dv

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