This week I discuss various types of sharpening steels and a method I use to maintain my knives with them.
I was down at West Allis Bowmen working in the kitchen (my favorite work-hour generator) awhile back and needed a sharp knife. While I grabbed out the chef knife and a sharpening steel and ran through an edge straightening sequence the kitchen chairman said, “I never did know how to use one of those things.” Honestly, since I’ve been using a steel of some sort since I was fifteen and working in a fur-skinning shop, I’d never given it much thought. I don’t know of any other quicker, more handy, way of refreshing a knife’s edge while in the midst of a cutting evolution than the sharpening steel.
I have ceramic rod steels, hardened steel steels of varying quality and a couple of diamond steels of varying quality. By far my absolute favorite is the ceramic rod versions that cost one-to-three dollars at gun/outdoor shows. Next is the higher quality steel version made by Old Hickory. The cheaper steel one that came with a Chicago knife set gets some use in the kitchen also. My least favorite are the small diamond steels. Actually, they might be true sharpeners more so than steels as they are far too rough in my opinion. In truth both the ceramic rods and the diamond steels probably provide some measure of sharpening as well as straightening.
From top to bottom; two steel sharpening steels, two ceramic rod steels and two diamond steels.
What It Does
I think it helps to think of a sharpening steel as more of an edge maintenance tool rather than a sharpener. A cutting edge gets distorted in use. Kind of like it is doing the “wave” – some portions of the blade’s edge are bent one direction while other portions are bent another. This non-linear edge doesn’t track well and doesn’t cut well. A steel straightens the tool’s cutting edge aligning it along its length. This allows it to cut with greater ease. There has to be a decent edge on the knife to start with in order for the steel to do its job. A steel isn’t going to do much good on the knife we just used to strip sheathing off copper wire or that has been rusting under the truck seat since that last road-kill possum we skinned.
The Technique
For years I muddled through using a steel by doing a little on one side and a little on the other until it either had an effect or I decided I had to break out a stone. Then I saw a cooking show where the host had a real technique.
First, grab the knife with the blade towards you in your primary hand. Grab the steel in your other hand with the tip point away from you. See the picture in step two, below.
Second, establish your angle. Twenty degrees is about right. What is twenty degrees? Here is close enough – look at a clock. Draw an imaginary line from the center to the “3″. Now draw another imaginary line from the center to the “2″. The angle formed by these two lines is thirty degrees (360 divided by 12), but by simply reducing it a little you’ll get close enough. That’s the angle for the top of your stroke. Now, imagine that same angle between the “3″ & “4″. That’s the angle for the bottom of your stroke.
The top stroke with a Victorinox-Forschner chef’s knife.
The top stroke with a Victorinox-Forschner pare knife.
Third, while maintaining the angle, take five slow “slices” off the steel on top and five slow “slices” off the steel on the bottom. Now take four slow slices off the top and four slow slices off the bottom. Now three on each side, now two, now one. Don’t try to emulate the crazy lightening speed of chefs you see on TV and movies (yet grasshopper). Take it slow and easy. Large blades require more coordination as a long stroke is required in a short distance. Little blades require a little finesse.
The bottom stroke with the Victorinox-Forschner chef knife.
The bottom stroke with a King Custom knife.
Your blade’s edge should be straight now and should feel sharper. If it doesn’t work the first time try it once more. After that it’s probably a sign you need a stone and not a steel. If the blade is in better condition to start you may only want to do three strokes per side and work your way down.
This process works for me. I have knives in the kitchen that receive nearly daily use that haven’t been truly sharpened in 2-3 years. The steel (and proper usage/care) is all the maintenance they need to slice tomatoes without the latest “Gimso 2000″ laser edged knife.
happy hunting, dv
If you liked this blog you may like the following:
- Packin It In And Out – Treestands
- Photographing Your Hunting Trophies
- Overhauling A Hunting Bow
- dustyvarmint’s Best Black Bean Huntin’ Chili
- Bringin’ Home the… Venison Breakfast Sausage
- How To – Prepare A European Skull Mount
- DIY $25 Bow Press
- Got Glass & Slate for Your Turkey Calls?
- A Clothing System For Cold Weather Bowhunting
- Forschner Knives – Buy Now, Thank Me Later
- How To – Make Your Own Turkey Friction Call
- How To – Make Your Own Turkey Friction Call – Part 2
- How To – Make Your Own Turkey Friction Call – Part 3
- DIY – Arrow Squaring Rig
- Preserving Bowhunting Memories
Feedback, Questions & Comments
I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions. Please leave them below.
Subscribe
Like this blog? Want to be notified of updates? Subscribe via RSS feed by clicking here.
