While working up some speed data, see Short Draw Bow Speeds And Technical Discussion, for Archery Report’s Bow Speed Database I needed to know how much weight was on the string.  Weight, or lack of it, on the string acts just like a lighter or heavier arrow.  More weight will slow the arrow down, less weight will allow it to move faster.  An old rule of thumb used to be that you’d gain one foot-per-second for each four grains reduction of weight.  The wide variety of bows on the market makes that number somewhat variable today.  In my recent experiment it turns out the number was between 3.15 and 3.88 grains per foot-per-second.  Managing weight on your string can have an effect on bow speed and the resulting kinetic energy. 

Most of my older bows needed some silencing on the string and cables.  Some of those silencers weigh more than others so experimenting with various options is a good thing.  My new Bowtech SWAT seems to be fine with silencers on just the cables.    

Below, you’ll find the weights of some common components we place on our strings. 

• Red nock set – 7.5 grains (a typical string set up would include two) 
• Black nock set – 5.1 grains (a typical string set up would include two) 
• Rubber eliminator button – 3.2 grains (a typical set up includes 2-3)

One red nock set, one black nock set and one eliminator button.  A 15.8 grain combination.

• D-loop – 6.4 grains (a very short 4.5” in length)
• Monofilament nock (in place of nock sets) – .7 grains

D-loop and and monofilament tied nocks.  A 7.1 grain combination.

• ¼” Meta-Peep by G5 – 6.5 grains

The 1/4″ G5 Meta-Peep.

• 1/8” Fletcher Tru-Peep – 8.8 grains

The Fletcher Tru-Peep.

• Spider Legs Silencers – 31.55 grains (a typical string set up would include two)

Spider Legs String Silencers.

• Sims String Leeches – 28.4 grains (a typical string would include two)

Sims String Leeches.

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following: 

• JD Welding Arrow Spin Testing – A dv Gear Review
• Overhauling A Hunting Bow
• Archery Release Mystery Solved
• DIY $25 Bow Press
• Short Draw Bow Speeds And Technical Discussion
• Short Draw Bow Kinetic Energy And Trajectory

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Warning:  This post contains technical content.  If you notice any inaccuracies, please bring them to my attention. 

A bow set-up’s speed rating by itself doesn’t necessarily mean too much.  For instance you don’t see anyone touting speed ratings under 200 fps as that isn’t too impressive these days.  I have a 1994 Hoyt Spectra Fastflite with round wheels that flings aluminum arrows at a blinding 187 fps.  That bow has shot a cut-on-contact Magnus Stinger through a 132 pound feral boar so well that it took two hands and a little back and leg muscle to pull the arrow out of the ground on the other side.  Translating that speed and arrow weight into something usable, such as kinetic energy, allows us to compare our bow’s performance to some generally recommended standards.  Note:  There is some discussion out there regarding KE versus momentum.  I’m not going to touch on that here, but you may wish to check out Archery Report’s ongoing discussion of the subject.

• Kinetic Energy Recommendations
  • <25 ft lbs = Small Game (rabbits, squirrels, etc.)
  • 25-41 ft lbs = Medium Game (deer, pronghorn, etc.)
  • 42-65 ft lbs = Large Game (elk, bear, feral hog, etc.)
  • >65 ft lbs = Dangerous Game (cape buffalo, grizzly, etc.)

Also, and in balance, there is the consideration of trajectory.  I say “in balance” as a bowhunter has the option of shooting hewn logs with a trajectory arc like that of a volleyball going over the net or screaming pencils with a comparatively flat trajectory.  The hewn logs will have greater KE (although in my calculations there is a point of diminishing returns) and the screaming pencils will have less.  Why does it matter?  It matters, because in the field we don’t always know the exact yardage to the critter.  The shot on that feral hog was about 12 yards.  That bow is not the one I’d want on a modern day mule deer hunt over open, western terrain.  Combining misjudged yardage with an extreme trajectory will likely result in a missed target.  Dave Holt gives an excellent visual description of this in his books Balanced Bowhunting and Balanced Bowhunting II.  Additionally, this article, Arrow Buyer Help – Speed and Kinetic Energy from Hunter’s Friend is a great resource.

KE and Trajectory Results

Using the same set-ups presented in Short Draw Bow Speeds and Technical Discussion here are the KE and Trajectory Results.

Note:  KE can be computed by the following formula, (Arrow Weight x (Speed x Speed))/450800.  For example ((376.8 grains x (274 fps x 274 fps))/450800 = 62.75 ft/lbs.  Also note that the first KE figures given below are initial KE calculated using this formula.  As the arrow slows terminal KE will be less.  The terminal KE and trajectory figures given below at the indicated yardages are calculated using Archer’s Advantage software. 

2009 Bowtech SWAT – 376.8 gr arrow

• 26 5/8″ measured to AMO standard
• 69.75 lbs (maxed out)
• 14.6 gr on string (Fletcher TruPeep 8.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
• 376.8 gr arrow
• 274 fps (three arrow avg)
• 62.75 foot pounds KE (initial, actual)
• Calculated downrange KE and trajectory:
  • 20 yards – 8.9 inches drop, 58.1 ft/lbs KE
  • 30 yards – 20.3 inches drop, 55.9 ft/lbs KE
  • 40 yards – 36.6 inches drop, 53.9 ft/lbs KE
  • 50 yards – 58.1 inches drop, 51.9 ft/lbs KE

2009 Bowtech SWAT – 360.1 gr arrow

• 26 5/8″ measured to AMO standard
• 69.75 lbs (maxed out)
• 14.6 gr on string (Fletcher TruPeep 8.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
• 360.1 gr arrow
• 279.3 fps (three arrow avg)
• 62.31 foot pounds KE (initial, actual)
• Calculated downrange KE and trajectory (Note that these calculated results seem suspect when compared to the above set up – a lighter arrow in this case should not equal greater KE, but I’m reporting the results as they were generated.):
  • 20 yards – 8.1 inches drop, 60.8 ft/lbs KE
  • 30 yards – 18.5 inches drop, 58.5 ft/lbs KE
  • 40 yards – 33.5 inches drop, 56.2 ft/lbs KE
  • 50 yards – 53.1 inches drop, 54.0 ft/lbs KE

2006 Reflex Highlander – 376.8 gr arrow

• 26 1/2″ measured to AMO standard
• 67.25 lbs (maxed out)
• 69.1 gr on string (1/4″ G5 Meta-Peep 6.5 gr, SIMS Super String Leeches 56.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
• 376.8 gr arrow
• 259 fps (three arrow avg)
• 56.07 foot pounds KE (initial, actual)
• Calculated downrange KE and trajectory:
  • 20 yards – 9.7 inches drop, 53.2 ft/lbs KE
  • 30 yards – 22.2 inches drop, 51.2 ft/lbs KE
  • 40 yards – 40.1 inches drop, 49.3 ft/lbs KE
  • 50 yards – 63.6 inches drop, 47.4 ft/lbs KE

2006 Reflex Highlander – 360.1 gr arrow

• 26 1/2″ measured to AMO standard
• 67.25 lbs (maxed out)
• 69.1 gr on string (1/4″ G5 Meta-Peep 6.5 gr, SIMS Super String Leeches 56.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
• 360.1 gr arrow
• 263.3 fps (three arrow avg)
• 55.38 foot pounds KE (initial, actual)
• Calculated downrange KE and trajectory:
  • 20 yards – 9.7 inches drop, 49.7 ft/lbs KE
  • 30 yards – 22.2 inches drop, 47.8 ft/lbs KE
  • 40 yards – 40.1 inches drop, 46.1 ft/lbs KE
  • 50 yards – 63.5 inches drop, 44.3 ft/lbs KE

More Technical Musings

For a later-to-be-announced 2010 adventure I’m trying to deliver 62-65 ft lbs with my set up based on the outfitter’s recommendation.  The new Bowtech SWAT puts me on the edge of that.  The Highlander is quite a bit short of my goal.  It’ll be my back up on this adventure.  My dilemma is whether or not I want to up the ante even more and switch to a reliable, economical solution; aluminum arrows.  I know there are a lot of good carbon/aluminum and aluminum/carbon options out there, but when I compare $50 per dozen, raw shaft, for aluminum to $100+ per dozen for carbon/aluminum or aluminum/carbon (raw shaft) the solution is obvious for me. 

So, putting Archer’s Advantage’s tools to use with a hypothetical set up in the Reflex Highlander, the potential with the lightest aluminum arrow with the proper spine, a 2412, weighing (computed vice actual) 400 grains would deliver 64.7 ft lbs initial KE with a downrange KE and trajectory as listed below.  This is another situation where the generated results are suspect and would have to proven.  For instance, when compared to the results above the arrow drop with this heavier arrow is less at 50 yards than the other two set-ups.   However, KE is significantly higher which is good.  A test arrow would have to be made, weighed and shot through the chrony and then that information fed into Archer’s Advantage to verify the results. 

• 2412 Aluminum Arrow in the Reflex Highlander (calculated using Archer’s Advantage) 
  • 20 yards – 9.3 inches drop, 57.8 ft/lb KE
  • 30 yards – 21.4 inches drop, 54.6 ft/lb KE
  • 40 yards – 38.3 inche drop, 51.6 ft/lb KE
  • 50 yards – 62 inches drop, 48.7 ft/lb KE

With the SWAT just reaching the lower edge of the desired KE I will be using a full cut-on-contact broadhead, the 4-blade, 100-grain Magnus Stinger for this adventure.  If you have concerns about your delivered KE, regardless of quarry pursued, I recommend the same strategy.  I get a lot of people asking me why I shoot 67.5-70 lbs when, according to them, 50 or 60 lbs will get the job done.  Truth be known I’d shoot in the low 70′s if manufacturers made limbs in the 65-75 lb range.  Typically people who ask me this start out at 28.5 inches or more in draw length and are already exceeding the speed and KE delivered by my set-up even when they are shooting less draw weight.  In my opinion, and this is just my opinion, for short DL archers shooting the most draw weight one can safely and accurately handle is the best way to go.  This is one of the reasons I consistently hit the gym.  Safe and accurate are keys here – if an archer can’t draw his or her bow while sitting in a chair with both feet off the ground then he or she is shooting too much draw weight. 

I’d like to keep the flattest trajectory possible, but it is very important to set myself up with the best penetration possible also.  Note that the minimum difference in drop between any of the four set-ups from 20-30 yards is 10.4 inches on the SWAT’s 360.1 grain set-up.  If I aim at the center of a standard 8 inch kill zone any yardage estimation error greater than about 4 yards (one inch drop per yard) will drop the arrow more than the distance from the center of the kill-zone to a miss - 4 inches.  Due to this I try to mitigate yardage estimation errors by participating in 3D shoots without the aid of my range-finder.  I estimate the yardage, shoot and then range the target to see how close or far away my estimate was.  I also try to use that tactic in addition to shooting with a partner who is superior to me at judging distance so I have the opportunity to judge the range, discuss any “trouble spots” a particular target is posing (long, dark, brushy tunnel vs. open and sunny for instance) and learn from the experience.  Shooting with my friend Gary Martin who has taken the archery Super Slam (defined as harvesting each of North America’s 28, now 29, big game species) accomplishes this.

Recommended resources: 

• Dave Holt’s Balanced Bowhunting II. 
• Hunter’s Friend’s Arrow Buyer Help – Speed and Kinetic Energy

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following: 

• JD Welding Arrow Spin Testing – A dv Gear Review
• Overhauling A Hunting Bow
• Archery Release Mystery Solved
• DIY $25 Bow Press

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Warning:  This post contains technical content.

I spent some time the other night recording arrow speeds for submission to Archery Report’s Bow Speed Database.  This was previously mentioned in Archery Resources.  It was important to be as careful and accurate as possible to allow the comparison of true apple-to-apples.  We’ve all seen numbers reported that there is no way possible to produce – like someone shooting twenty pounds less than I am with similar equipment reaching speeds that exceed those my bows produce.  Machismo (or straight up guessing) on the part of the reporting party may play a factor in there somewhere. 

The Results 

2009 Bowtech SWAT – 376.8 gr arrow 

• 26 5/8″ measured to AMO standard
• 69.75 lbs (maxed out)
• 14.6 gr on string (Fletcher TruPeep 8.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
• 376.8 gr arrow
• 274 fps (three arrow avg) 

2009 Bowtech SWAT – 360.1 gr arrow 

• 26 5/8″ measured to AMO standard
• 69.75 lbs (maxed out)
• 14.6 gr on string (Fletcher TruPeep 8.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
• 360.1 gr arrow
• 279.3 fps (three arrow avg) 

2006 Reflex Highlander – 376.8 gr arrow 

• 26 1/2″ measured to AMO standard
• 67.25 lbs (maxed out)
• 69.1 gr on string (1/4″ G5 Meta-Peep 6.5 gr, SIMS Super String Leeches 56.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
• 376.8 gr arrow
• 259 fps (three arrow avg) 

2006 Reflex Highlander – 360.1 gr arrow 

• 26 1/2″ measured to AMO standard
• 67.25 lbs (maxed out)
• 69.1 gr on string (1/4″ G5 Meta-Peep 6.5 gr, SIMS Super String Leeches 56.8 gr, string loop 5.1 gr, tied string nocks .7 gr)
• 360.1 gr arrow
• 263.3 fps (three arrow avg) 

Satisfaction

Since I can remember when 242 fps (using the latest machined-riser bow, a sizable over-draw and the latest carbon-aluminum arrows) was exciting you can imagine my excitement in seeing 279.3 fps (one of the three arrows actually went 280) with my new Bowtech SWAT.  At my short 26.5″ draw length I never really thought I’d see 280 fps with normal hunting tackle in the mid-priced range (which is what I shoot – nothing fancy here) that I believe has both sufficient axle-to-axle (ATA) and brace-height (BH) for reliable in-the-field performance. 

Technical Musings

Two different arrows were shot through each bow; a 376.8 grain arrow and a 360.1 grain arrow.  The weight difference was 16.7 grains.  The difference in speed between the two arrows shot through the SWAT was 5.3 fps.  If I divide 16.7 grains by 5.3 fps we see that for each reduction of 3.15 grains there is a gain of 1 fps.  Likewise, the same math exercise with the Highlander shows a speed difference between the two arrows of 4.3 fps.  Again, if I divide 16.7 grains by 4.3 fps we see that for each reduction of 3.88 grains there is a gain of 1 fps.  In other words it appears the SWAT is more efficient; it takes less of a reduction (3.15 vs 3.88) in weight to obtain 1 fps gain in speed.  However, there is a difference of 2.5 pounds draw weight between the two bows. 

Something I wondered about while shopping for bows was, “Has technology really produced faster, improved bows or are the numbers we see simply marketing hype?”  Notice that there is a significant difference in the amount of weight on the strings between the two bows.  Weight on the string affects speed, noise and vibration just as a heavier arrow would.  Generally, the more weight propelled by the bow’s limbs the quieter and more vibration free the bow will be and the less weight the bow’s limbs propel the louder the bow and less vibration free the bow will be as energy unable to be absorbed by the arrow (due to less mass) results in the side effects of noise and vibration.  Interestingly (and satisfyingly), the newer technology SWAT is quieter and more vibration free than the older Highlander even with all the weight on the Highlander’s string and the greater draw weight of the SWAT.  This is a nod to better technology producing quieter, more vibration free bows at least.  

If I were to try to equalize the weight on the string by reducing the Highlander’s 69.1 grains to the SWAT’s 14.6 grains weight on string I’d have to remove 54.5 grains.  Since each reduction of 3.88 grains realized 1 fps in speed for the Highlander I’ll divide 54.5 grains by 3.88 grains.  The result is a potential 14.05 fps gain in speed.  If I add that 14.05 fps to the 259 fps achieved by the 376.8 grain arrow the result is 273.05 fps; almost exactly equal to the SWAT’s 274 fps results (and at lower poundage).  Similarly, if I add that 14.05 fps to the 263.3 fps achieved by the 360.1 grain arrow the result is 277.35 fps; just short of the SWAT’s 279.3 fps.  So, potentially, if I removed the 54.5 grains of extra weight off the Highlander’s string I might (italics) be able to achieve similar speeds with an older bow at less draw weight.  That is quite interesting.  

However, one rule that I try to follow (it isn’t easy) is that during hunting season if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it.  Due to some meddling last year I missed one deer during the late season and would have severely screwed up my trip to Texas, Outfitter Report – Hogs and Javelina in Texas and Boar Attack – Anatomy of a Hog Shot Gone Wrong, had I not checked my bow’s zero upon arrival.  So, I’m not likely to mess with the Highlander anytime in the near future.  I am convinced, however, that the noise level would significantly increase on the Highlander without the extra weight and the vibration absorbing String Leeches. 

Alright, so now that I’ve recorded the speeds, what do they mean?  Does any of this affect kinetic energy or trajectory?  I’ll save that for a future post.  So please come back.  You won’t want to miss it. 

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following: 

• JD Welding Arrow Spin Testing – A dv Gear Review
• Overhauling A Hunting Bow
• Archery Release Mystery Solved
• DIY $25 Bow Press

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I’ve had an affinity for blacksmithing and forging since a very young age.  So when I learned about Forge Bow Company, Inc in the early nineties at the Madison, WI Deer and Turkey Classic I was immediately drawn to the line.  However, Forge has always posted some relatively mild speed ratings in my opinion.  As owner Steve Pagel pointed out, I like to compensate for my 26.5″ draw length with a little more draw weight and a fast bow.  They no longer forge their risers, but Bowhunt America recently reported in the June 2009 Spring Buyer’s Guide that Forge was producing the Ventilator for 2009.  A 34″ axle-to-axle (ATA), 8″ brace height (BH) bow rated at 330 feet per second (fps) catches my attention.

I couldn’t find any information about the Ventilator on their website at the time (they’ve since updated it) so I gave them a call.  Steve gave me a prompt call back.  He answered some questions about the bow and talked enough tech to make me interested.  I learned that the Forge Factory and Store were only about thirty-five minutes from my house.  So, outdoors pardner Seth and I headed up there on a Saturday morning.  We found Steve helping a customer in the range above the store.  Once finished he turned his attention to us. 

The Ventilator is available in two models, a 32″ ATA and a 34″ ATA.  Both cover a range of draw lengths without changing modules or pressing the bow.  Two hex screws and it is done.  That is definitely an asset when it comes to resale value.  To accommodate my draw length I needed the 32″ ATA model.  Steve set it up at the right draw length, but this particular bow, he called it a prototype of the model, could only go to 62 pounds draw weight.  The bow drew smoothly, had an extremely solid back wall, and was relatively quiet and relatively vibration free at the shot.  It was a fun bow to shoot.  Seth said the same thing. 

Still early in production there is currently a lag-time in order fulfillment.  He had another 32″ ATA Ventilator that a customer was coming to pick up that day.  I could draw it to see how 68 pounds felt, but couldn’t shoot it.  The draw was still very smooth, but there seemed to be a little “hop” in let-off at the end.  The back wall was still very solid.      

Forge bows come with Vapor Trail strings installed.  From Overhauling a Hunting Bow you know I am a VT fan and they produce products you can trust.  The laminated wood grip was smooth and comfortable.  Overall, I was taken with the Ventilator, but I want the opportunity to come in and shoot it at my desired draw weight and my choice of arrow through the chronograph.  That’ll likely be sometime later this summer.

We also discussed Forge’s arrow lines.  They currently produce two, the Extreme and the Slipstream.  Recently awarded a patent the Slipstream is a parallel-to-taper-to-parallel shaft.  I didn’t understand what made the Slipstream different from the Nitro-Stinger or Grizzlystik.  Steve explained it.  Basically, the arrow is wide enough to accept an insert at the forward end and very narrow in the back end.  It tapers the entire length.  This set up has a definite forward-of-center (FOC) advantage.  There is also some discussion that indicates there may be a penetration advantage to this design, that the arrow is less affected by cross winds and that it recovers more quickly at the shot due to reduced weight in the tail end.  The internal walls on both ends are parallel.  This allows the arrow to be cut off on either end to tune it to the exact shooter’s set up.  Both the insert and nock fit internally so outserts are not required. 

Two thousand nine also marks Forge’s entry into the bowfishing market with a new bow and two arrows.  I’d actually seen the new Mako in Backwater Bowfishing’s 2009 catalog a few weeks prior, but hadn’t really put the two together.  At 3.7 pounds it is light, smooth-drawing, has a 34″ ATA and 8.25″ BH for finger shooting and forgiveness, accommodates draw lengths from 25-31″ and draw weights from 25-60 pounds.  It looks cool, too, in its blue camo and comes equipped with No-Glovs.

Also in the bowfishing line are two new arrow shafts, the Yellow Fin and the Shocker.  The Yellow Fin is a 5/16″ diameter 1200 grain fiberglass composite boasting +/-.0075″ straightness tolerance.  The Shocker is high “M” carbon with radial weave and +/-.003″ straightness.  It is available in 5/16″ at 1075 grains or 21/64″ at 1300 grains.  There are two exciting things about this arrow.  First, it has a built in shock absorber in the forward end to reduce damage to the arrow when unintentionally hitting hard objects like rocks.  Second, it will accept normal nocks which can be indexed as well as lighted nocks without the use of accuracy destroying outserts.  That’s exciting.  We picked up a couple and will be trying them out shortly (we hope). 

As previously mentioned there is a range including 3D targets upstairs as well as a pro shop with a variety of high-quality products downstairs.  If you are in the area I suggest stopping by for a visit.  I know I can’t wait to go back and shoot the Ventilator.  For more information visit Forge Bow Company, Inc at www.forgebow.com or give Steve a call at 414-732-7400.

happy hunting, dv

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Coming up on Mostly Archery

• Bowfishing – Preparing the Boat
• Anatomy of a Bowfishing Bow
• dv Completes a Half Marathon
• First 2009 Batch O’ Bowfishes

To buy a new bow or overhaul the old bow?  That is the question.  I think nearly all of us want the “latest and greatest”, but when is it really time to buy a new bow?  I asked around online forums including Bowcast and saw others asking the same question.  Other than the archer who wisely recommended that you only buy a bow if your mortgage, car payments and childrens’ college funds are up-to-date, I really didn’t find a satisfactory answer.  Lexus would only eat the books and bite the professors so I could probably use her college fund to buy a new bow, but I still didn’t know what to do. 

What it came down to for me was that the price of a new bow nearly equaled the cost of my pronghorn hunt this fall or my trip to Texas in January.  Basically, I’d rather “dump the string” on critters with an old bow than dump the money to buy a new one this year.  This “new equipment versus string-dumping” is a subject I’ll explore more in a future blog.  However, it was time to change out the string and do some modifications to my shooting style.  Here is my current bow set up bought in the latter part of 2006. 

Reflex Highlander set to 26.5″ draw length and 67.5 pounds

Factory strings and cables

Sims super string leeches

Copper John pre-2007 .019″ 5-pin sight

Tubed 3/16″ peep

Nock sets

Eliminator buttons

STS string dampener

Quiet Tune stabilizer

Trophy Taker Shakey Hunter rest

NAP arrow holder

Neet web sling

A 2006 Reflex Highlander

Here is the work list:

New strings and cables

Addition of a D-loop

Change to a tubeless 1/4″ peep

New string silencers

New braided sling

Add non-slip material to grip

New stabilizer

Some of the parts used for the overhaul.

String Choices

I’ve used Winner’s Choice and Vapor Trail strings in the past and been happy with both.  WC’s are great strings, but I don’t shoot well enough to notice a difference between them and the lower cost alternatives.  My bowfishing bow that also serves as a back up if needed has Vapor Trail strings on it.  They’ve held up well to the wet, hot, sunny, slimy and bloody conditions of bowfishing.  A solid-shooting acquaintance I respect at local West Allis Bowmen turned me on to Wolf Den Strings and Johns Customs has a good reputation over at Bowcast. 

I contacted VT, Wolf Den and Johns Customs to check on the number of strands, materials used, pre-stretching technique and get a feel for the experience of each.  I was interested in the number of strands due to nock fit, creep (permanent lengthening) and speed.  Pre-stretch goes to maintaining peep rotation especially considering I am switching to a tubeless peep and d-loop.  Customer service was great from all.  I decided to stick with VT just because I have had good experiences with them. 

Changing Strings

I’d rather have a nail driven through my toe than tune a bow.  But, I’d rather change the strings and tune the bow myself than take it somewhere.  Why?  I haven’t found a “pro” shop I trust to do this work. 

In the past I have had strings so long put on my bow that they actually allowed the cam to rotate all the way around and cut into it.  I’ve had a hole drilled completely through my riser.  I dealt with one manufacturer who couldn’t return the bow to its original draw length after three attempts.  I’ve had shop technicians argue with me about the length of my arrows and I’ve had them consistently cut off 1/16″ crooked.  And I’ve experienced such bad customer service that even forgiving Mrs. dv said, “You’re not actually going to buy a bow there are you?”  When trying to explain the technical aspect of what I was trying to accomplish with a bow I’ve had shop technicians give me that dull, deer-in-the-headlights’ look. 

Doing the work yourself isn’t without risk or frustration.  I broke a limb on one of my bows once by failing to reassemble it properly.  Each archer has to decide if working on his or her bow to this level is desirable.

To see if all this work would make any difference I ran a few arrows through the chronograph.  Three arrows later the average was 254 feet per second.  When I bought the bow two years ago the average was 262.

Since I don’t do this kind of thing all the time I proceed slowly.  I usually have old catalogs with pictures of the bow on hand to make sure everything goes back together the same way.  I also take close digital pictures for the same reason.  When new I recorded the factory specifications, axle-to-axle and brace height measurements in the original owner’s manual. 

I measured and recorded the distance from the string’s top loop to the peep and nock point so I can get them back into a starting position on the new string.  Then I slowly swapped out both cables and the string one at a time. 

Set Draw Length and Draw Weight

Proper draw length is critical for shooting well.  I worry about that first.  Make a “measuring arrow” from an old one that is too long for your draw length.  Look in the “lost bucket” of your local archery club for possible candidates.  I take my desired draw length, 26 1/2″, subtract 1 3/4″ and arrive at 24 3/4″.  I then measure my arrow from the valley of the nock to the 24 3/4″ point and mark that.  Why?  Because that is the Archery Trade Association standard.  The distance from the string at full draw to the center of the Berger button hole for a 30″ draw bow is actually 28 1/4″.  The Berger button is the hole in the riser where the bolt for your rest goes in which just happens be directly above the most forward part of your grip (inside the riser).

dv’s Time Out Corner:  Verify your measuring arrow’s measurements before starting.  I spent three days working up a sweat trying to set my draw length only to find I was using the wrong mark on my measuring arrow – “Measure twice, set draw length once.”     

I then fasten a paperclip to my riser as in the picture below and draw the bow.  By comparing the mark on the arrow to the paperclip I determine if the draw length is too long or too short.  You can also have a friend or your wife help you with this.  I avoid bothering Mrs. dv.  She’s usually watching American Idiot or America’s Next Top Moron and I wouldn’t appreciate it if she bothered me while I was tuning my bow (or staring at it lovingly…  or reminiscing about past hunts with it…).

Once I set draw length I move on to draw weight adjusting the limb bolts as necessary.  It is good to start out with your bolts bottomed out and unscrew them in equal amounts to maintain equal tiller (distance from limb pocket to string) on top and bottom.  I mark my bolts (as in picture below) to maintain equal settings.

It’s tough to see, but there is line etched into the limb bolt visible horizontally at the three o’clock point.

Basic Tuning

I believe you need to “shoot the strings in” before final tuning, but I don’t want the system so far out of tune that it is a beast to shoot.  Whether I’m shooting for score or just whacking some spots my practice time is valuable and I want the most out of it.  So, I do some basic tuning.

Whatever type bow you have check around and see if someone has developed a tuning guide for it.  Likely sources are Bowcast, Archery Talk or the manufacturer’s website.  I have three different guides for the Reflex Slam and 1/2 cams on my Highlander.  Take your time and go through the process slowly.  Like I said, it can be frustrating.  Adjustments to a cable can affect draw length and weight and I sometimes feel I’m running in circles.  Keep at it until it is where you want it.  Since each one is so specific I won’t go into details on this process.

Loop, Peep, String Silencers

Next I installed my d-loop.  Use your square to determine its location.  In order to maintain my anchor I wanted the loop as small (short) as possible.  It took me about 8 tries before getting it close.  I’m still not sure if it is where I want it, but it is a start.  Visit the Bowcast Blog on d-loop tying and T-Bone Turner’s videos on d-loop tying for more information. 

Next I installed the peep.  I went with a 1/4″ peep as I want to center my pre-2007 Copper John pin guard inside it when aiming as another reference point.  I chose the tube-less G5 Meta Peep for this.  Discontinuing the tube reduces weight, should add speed and reduce noise. 

String silencers were next.  I went with the original Sims string leeches for this.  The Primos String Bats were economically priced and I like Primos’ products in general, but there was so little material there I didn’t see how they could have any effect.   

dv’s Time Out Corner:  I wanted to check the peep’s alignment before putting the STS and stabilizer (which hold the sling) on since they have to be removed to press the bow.  On my first shot the bow jumped out of my hand and landed right on the concrete floor on the bottom cam.  All seems well, but it did ding up the bottom cam some.  Shoot with your sling on your bow!

Sling

I installed the sling one step too late.  I really like how it is more rigid than the old web-material version.  That should be handy for getting into it in the field.    

Grip Material

The local hardware store had some adhesive-backed, non-slip material near the glues and friction tape.  Basically, it was black sandpaper with adhesive on the back.  I applied it to the riser where the base of my thumb makes contact. 

Stabilizer

The shiny aluminum is showing through on my stabilizer, but I can no longer find the Quiet Tune line.  Cobra bought them from a local company and seems to have killed them.  I bought the Sims S-Coil 2.5″ Extension and mounted it with a Sims S-Coil Stabilizer I already had, but it wouldn’t fit with the excess portion of the STS bar sticking out the front.  Not wanting to cut off the STS bar as it may eventually end up on my target bow I went back and bought the Sims Xpress Stabilizer which fit just fine.

Post overhaul.

Chrono Time

Ok, everything is back on the bow. Time to do some shooting and see how it went.  Three shots registered 262 fps every time.  For my draw length I’m pretty happy with that. 

Conclusion

That is pretty much it.  I’ll have to do final paper tuning after I’ve shot it in awhile and then compare field point point-of-impact to the two types of broadheads I use.  Further tuning and sighting may be required after that, but that is for a future blog.

happy hunting, dv

Feedback, Questions & Comments

I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions.  Please leave them below. 

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Coming up on Mostly Archery

• Bowfishing – Preparing the Boat
• A Visit to the Forge Bow Factory Store
• Anatomy of a Bowfishing Bow